front callipers...what a "drag"
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Shenandoah, IA.
front callipers...what a "drag"
(94 E-150) I had front wheels in air, I couldn't hardly turn by hand w/wheel on. took calliper off, turned great! Should I put NEW calliper on? ,or "kit" the old one? Is it hard, or easy?
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Should just be able to pick rebuilt ones at the auto parts store at a good price.
One of the old Dodges I had, had rust on the cross shaft that went through the brake pedal arm, and it would cause the brakes to not release.
One of the old Dodges I had, had rust on the cross shaft that went through the brake pedal arm, and it would cause the brakes to not release.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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My '85 had plastic pistons, according to the brake shop fellas. The rebuilt them with steel, and did some other work, and wow, it's great to have brakes. If you can find a good brake shop, swap 'em out with rebuilts, I guess.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Shenandoah, IA.
callipers it is!!!
Hey, thanks for the come back! Turns out, the core is worth almost as much as the rebuilt! Parts guy said to replace the brake line too...$24.oo per side. Total cost both sides=$68.00. Rebuilt-$47.00 They give me $40.00 for old one, $50.00 for both lines.Not bad if I do say so myself!
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,015
Likes: 131
From: Maryville
I worked on a vehicle once that the brake line let the fluid into the caliper, but not out, the fluid remained trapped in it, locking the brake. I replaced the caliper first, did not do a thing to correct it, had to go back and replace the brake line, you need to have the rotors checked now for premature wear.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Shenandoah, IA.
Well, I havn't had time to do it yet. I think I'll do it Fri. I just know how much it will cost!!! Your right, I'm gonna do the line while I'm at it. Thanks for the confirmation.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Birmingham, AL
Wiskey6,
You can check to see if it's just the line by opening the bleeder valve and then pushing the piston back in with either a tool made for that purpose or a large pair of channel locks over a small block of wood. The caliper may be ok. The lines will deteriorate inside and form sort of a flapper valve that will let fluid go to the brake but block it's return, like Maples was talking about. I have had that happen too.
You may find that the caliper seal is cracked and torn from the heat generated by the brake. My '94 has steel pistons but they can corrode if you never change the brake fluid or get gunked up and begin to stick if the boot is torn.
Clean up all of the rails and their mating surface on the caliper and lubricate with synthetic brake grease.
Of course you can't go wrong by just replacing all of it, but if you have the time to mess with it some, you may be able to narrow it down and save a few bucks.
Gene
You can check to see if it's just the line by opening the bleeder valve and then pushing the piston back in with either a tool made for that purpose or a large pair of channel locks over a small block of wood. The caliper may be ok. The lines will deteriorate inside and form sort of a flapper valve that will let fluid go to the brake but block it's return, like Maples was talking about. I have had that happen too.
You may find that the caliper seal is cracked and torn from the heat generated by the brake. My '94 has steel pistons but they can corrode if you never change the brake fluid or get gunked up and begin to stick if the boot is torn.
Clean up all of the rails and their mating surface on the caliper and lubricate with synthetic brake grease.
Of course you can't go wrong by just replacing all of it, but if you have the time to mess with it some, you may be able to narrow it down and save a few bucks.
Gene
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Freshman User
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From: Shenandoah, IA.
Boy, did I feel foolish when I went into the parts store!!! I found out that total cost per side was $79.00, not $38.00 like I thought! I don't know what that 1st parts guy was talking about. Oh well, it will still be done.
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Freshman User
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From: Shenandoah, IA.
I got the line and the calliper on now! Minus all the running around I had to do, it took about 1 1/2 hours. It don't squeak as much now either! It still don't free wheel quite as easy as I thought it would...oh well.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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As long as there is no pulsing when they are applied, they should be fine.
I just did new pads and turned the disk, and they do not turn easy w/the caliers on.
It rolls and breakes just fine.
Gotta R&R those outer plastic caged wheel bearings now....
I just did new pads and turned the disk, and they do not turn easy w/the caliers on.
It rolls and breakes just fine.
Gotta R&R those outer plastic caged wheel bearings now....
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: SW Arizona
Rotor could be warped, or bearings are shot, "Check those bearings!"
In the meantime, my husband replaced both brake hoses as the rubber was cracked/rotten surrounding the cord. He had to make a key spring for one caliper as we could not find any at the local parts store.
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