When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I replaced the LLS compressor about 1 year ago on my 1999 Expy EB 4X4. After replacing the pump it did raise the rear end but the pump seem to run all the time. It would come on while driving very frequently. Yesterday the rear end dropped while driving & I once again have a saggy rear end! The pump still turns on but will not pump up the rear end. Is it possible for the pump to turn on but to not raise the rear? Should I just replace the pump again? I don't remember who I ordered the pump from last time. Does anyone here have a recomendation as far as who to buy from?
Thanks in advance for everyones help!
I replaced the LLS compressor about 1 year ago on my 1999 Expy EB 4X4. After replacing the pump it did raise the rear end but the pump seem to run all the time. It would come on while driving very frequently. Yesterday the rear end dropped while driving & I once again have a saggy rear end! The pump still turns on but will not pump up the rear end. Is it possible for the pump to turn on but to not raise the rear? Should I just replace the pump again? I don't remember who I ordered the pump from last time. Does anyone here have a recomendation as far as who to buy from?
Thanks in advance for everyones help!
John
John,
Take a look at this thread, you might find that this is the fix for your problem.
I had some of the same problems that you are experiencing. In the thread is the part number for the union. Also, you may not want to hear this, you probably did not have to replace the original pump, as this "union" will develope cracks that allow air to escape, thus causing the pump to run much more offten. The new union is a much better design.
If that is not your problem then I would get under the truck and start tracing the lines from the bags to the front, and see if there is a break anywhere.
When you say "union", do you mean an electrical connector, or an air line connection? Is this under the drivers side floorboard or near the black box in front of the master cylinder.
Thanks.
John
The lines are a combination of metal and plastic. Where the union is it is plastic. I would first look for the union and see if it is broken, or has cracks in it. Most of the time when it is "broken", the peice has split in two, so you might find an "unconnected" air line near the box. If so then look for the other end of the line.
if the union is not the problem, then I would do an inspection of the rest of the air lines in the system. Easiest way is to get it on a lift, or get the rear on ramps so you can get under it to trace the lines.
I traced an air line from the LLS compressor to the area just below the black box & fuse/relay box in front of the master cylinder & there is a black hose connector that connects this line to another line that appears to run under the truck towards the rear end. I will inspect this hose connector. Should I disconnect the hoses at this junction connector, turn the ignition to on, & feel if air is being pumped out by the compressor?
You mentioned that I may not have needed to replace the LLS compressor in the first place 1 year ago, but after I did, the rear end raised & was fine.
Do you know if the compressor is turning on & running, does that mean that it must be pumping air? Or can the compressor still run when it may be bad?
Thanks again. I really appreciate your help!
John
The air connector appears fine. The LLS compressor is coming on about every 60 seconds or so & running for about 20 - 30 seconds. Is there a sensor in the rear end that could be bad? Is it common to develop leaks in an air line?
Thanks,
John
Actually, there is a very small crack near the end of this air line connector but it doesn't appear to be enough to cause a problem. Anyway, I wrapped the entire connector with tape to see if the rear end would raise when the compressor ran, & it didn't.
Actually, there is a very small crack near the end of this air line connector but it doesn't appear to be enough to cause a problem. Anyway, I wrapped the entire connector with tape to see if the rear end would raise when the compressor ran, & it didn't.
John
That crack will eventually cause the union to fail, so you might want to replace it before to long.
Are you sure the lines are connected to the compressor? If so, then start tracing the lines. Do you hear air leaking? Since you found the union (BTW, that line is what feeds the rear bags air) can you tell if air is being pumped past it?
Worst case you have a bag failure, but I would bet the problem is a disconnected / broken line.
While inspecting the union air line connector near the black box, it became disconnected from the side that goes to the rear air bags, apparently due to the crack in the connector housing. There is air pumping through the lines so the compressor is working. Now I can't figure out how to disconnect the other side of the coonnector. There is a small brass piece that goes around the white inner line. How in the world do I get this thing off?
Thanks,
John
While inspecting the union air line connector near the black box, it became disconnected from the side that goes to the rear air bags, apparently due to the crack in the connector housing. There is air pumping through the lines so the compressor is working. Now I can't figure out how to disconnect the other side of the coonnector. There is a small brass piece that goes around the white inner line. How in the world do I get this thing off?
Thanks,
John
Ahh, the infamous brass piece. Are you going to replace the connector? (BTW, you can only get that from Ford). If so then use something to pry the clips off the hard plastic inner line. I used an instrument screw driver (really small) and small needle nose pliers to get the brass off. Be careful not to damage the inner line. Once off clean it good before replacing with the new part. The part number is in the post mentioned above. I would bet you are going to destroy the old piece no matter how you remove it. You can as a temp. fix, use another rubber line and pipe clamps in place of the union. The gentleman in the other post did this as a temp. fix.
Thanks. I got the connector off, now I gotta find one in stock at a ford dealer & hope that fixes the problem.
I'll let you know how it turns out in a couple of hours.
Thanks!
John
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.