Strange F150 Problem
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Strange F150 Problem
All,
Here is a wierd one. My 1998 XLT FWD has taken lately to spraying windshield cleaner fluid on my windshield at exactly 74 MPH--and above.
I slow down, it stops. I stay at 74 or above and it keeps on spraying. The wipers don't move, and the truck is showing no codes.
What to do? Anyone have any ideas?
Wilbert
Here is a wierd one. My 1998 XLT FWD has taken lately to spraying windshield cleaner fluid on my windshield at exactly 74 MPH--and above.
I slow down, it stops. I stay at 74 or above and it keeps on spraying. The wipers don't move, and the truck is showing no codes.
What to do? Anyone have any ideas?
Wilbert
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That is a wierd one. My first thought would be that the cap for the windshield washer tank is either missing or loose, and at 74+ mph, the underhood airflow is being partially directed into the washer tank, pressurizing it, and causing the fluid to flow out of the nozzles.
This is WAG of the week, but hey, who knows?
This is WAG of the week, but hey, who knows?
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All,
Thanks for the help. No solution yet. The cap is tight. When I disconnect the washer motor the problem goes away. That is, induced pressure is not the problem, and the pump being actuated (for what ever reason) is the problem.
BTW, the wipers do not come on. Of course I turn them on to remove the washer fluid, which means I have a pretty clean windshield these days.
I'd appreciate any help anyone can give. I can just let the fluid run out, but then my pump will run when it's dry and I think this is probably not good.
If I simply disable the pump, I will soon be blind as I drive on dusty roads almost every day.
Wilbert
Thanks for the help. No solution yet. The cap is tight. When I disconnect the washer motor the problem goes away. That is, induced pressure is not the problem, and the pump being actuated (for what ever reason) is the problem.
BTW, the wipers do not come on. Of course I turn them on to remove the washer fluid, which means I have a pretty clean windshield these days.
I'd appreciate any help anyone can give. I can just let the fluid run out, but then my pump will run when it's dry and I think this is probably not good.
If I simply disable the pump, I will soon be blind as I drive on dusty roads almost every day.
Wilbert
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Ok,
I figured this wierd problem out and thought I'd share the answer to all you fine people who responded (and even the clueless who didn't).
I have a considerable amount of electrical after market equipment on my truck. To include: a CB; an alarm system; neon lights front, back, and underneath; back up camera; television; spinner wheel covers; lighted running boards; lighted Ford logo front and back; driving lights; spot light; cab markers; cherry tree; license plate neons; lighted CB antenna; corner floods (rear only of course); lighted mud flaps front and rear; lighted bed rails; hitch reciever light.
Turns out that all this stuff overloaded the body computer and somehow caused the windshield squirters to come on at 74 mph. I changed the fuse for the squirters to a higher amperage and the problem went away.
Now I can cruise at speed and in style.
Thanks all, Wilbert
I figured this wierd problem out and thought I'd share the answer to all you fine people who responded (and even the clueless who didn't).
I have a considerable amount of electrical after market equipment on my truck. To include: a CB; an alarm system; neon lights front, back, and underneath; back up camera; television; spinner wheel covers; lighted running boards; lighted Ford logo front and back; driving lights; spot light; cab markers; cherry tree; license plate neons; lighted CB antenna; corner floods (rear only of course); lighted mud flaps front and rear; lighted bed rails; hitch reciever light.
Turns out that all this stuff overloaded the body computer and somehow caused the windshield squirters to come on at 74 mph. I changed the fuse for the squirters to a higher amperage and the problem went away.
Now I can cruise at speed and in style.
Thanks all, Wilbert
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From: South Texas
That is probably just a band aid solution, hope it doesn't cause bigger problems down the road........by the way, I guess it was just your truck I saw flying down the road not a water squirting UFO like I first thought 
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Triton,
Thanks for the thought. I believe my solution will be long term as I have tested all 4,157 voltage, ohm, and resistance checks from the manual. Turns out my after market junk has confused the body computer. Good news is that all it took was a larger fuse to unconfuse the BC.
I miss the old days of points and valve adjustments, dwell, compression tests, and carburator rebuilds.
Wilbert
Thanks for the thought. I believe my solution will be long term as I have tested all 4,157 voltage, ohm, and resistance checks from the manual. Turns out my after market junk has confused the body computer. Good news is that all it took was a larger fuse to unconfuse the BC.
I miss the old days of points and valve adjustments, dwell, compression tests, and carburator rebuilds.
Wilbert
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From: Wheatland, Mo
CALL THE MIB! ITS A UFO! Wow...and I thought I added alot of stuff. I don't even have half that. I take it you don't do much "work" with the truck? Sounds like it should be on a platform with spotlights on it.
Pics? Hmm? Maybe a couple of night shots too?
Pics? Hmm? Maybe a couple of night shots too?
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I have to add this but you still need to be careful with all that stuff going through the same fuse. I have seen when a system is overfused it cuased it to burn out. Sounds like you know what you are doing so enjoy.
Lance
Lance
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Lancekilgore,
Thanks for the tip. Not all the aftermarket stuff is going through the same fuse.
Actually, I added an additional fuse holder with 30 fuse slots and run it directly off the battery with a solanoid switch to turn some fuse slots off when the ignition is off. Others, CB for example, stay energized even when the ingntion is off. Clever, no?
Project next: Heated vibrating shiatsu bucket seats. Leather and monagramed--of course.
After that: Headliner mounted swing down flat screen LCD TV and automatic electrically retracting antenna. The TV will require a pure wave inverter.
After that: (since I'll have the inverter installed) a mini fridge in the back seat. this will require splitting the back seat so the (padded) top of the fridge is level with the seat halfs.
After that: Who knows?
Wilbert
Thanks for the tip. Not all the aftermarket stuff is going through the same fuse.
Actually, I added an additional fuse holder with 30 fuse slots and run it directly off the battery with a solanoid switch to turn some fuse slots off when the ignition is off. Others, CB for example, stay energized even when the ingntion is off. Clever, no?
Project next: Heated vibrating shiatsu bucket seats. Leather and monagramed--of course.
After that: Headliner mounted swing down flat screen LCD TV and automatic electrically retracting antenna. The TV will require a pure wave inverter.
After that: (since I'll have the inverter installed) a mini fridge in the back seat. this will require splitting the back seat so the (padded) top of the fridge is level with the seat halfs.
After that: Who knows?
Wilbert
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It might still be associated with the gem module. I have a '99 F250SD that starts to alarm at 74 MPH. The alarm stops at about 72/73 MPH. This all started when when my gem module was replaced but the dealer doesn't understand how it got there.
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