120,000kms, 3 sets of ball joints, replaced differential seals, 2 sets of hub/knuckle seals, u-joints both sides, constant cleaning/rebuild/lubing autohubs...$3,500 Can in 1 year...enough is enuff!

My other posts list the legacy of faulty parts and failures that would be a shrug if this truck was made in Slovakia or in darkest Mongolia. But it's a Ford, built with American Pride in Kentucky. I expected better as my previous 4 Fords had few issues. The constant repairs are killing me! I am right now looking for 2 lower body mounts. Mr. Ford says there are none in North America so it's off to the wreckers again. They send me Christmas cards every year.

Anyway..I digress and must stop before I rant and hemorage.

I want to replace the front axle with an aftermarket that keeps the crud out and will last more than 30,000 kms without some kind of failure, rattle or clunk. Also, one that does not require specialized tools from Mr. Ford to fix. I get my truck dirty and wet routinely and need an axle that keeps water out and lube in. If it were already set for double shocks, that would be gravy.

The rear has been fine but if I have to do it as well, that's OK. Going to a higher ratio would be a bonus anyway.

I don't graze in the money pasture like so many of the fixes and Excursion Bling Buses on the web. Robbing from past Ford or other skeletons would not damage my frail cash pride. Beside the constant repairs to this albatross may not leave me with much choice. Sorta like a boat, it's hole in my driveway that I keep trying to fill with money.

Shouldn't trucks go to their graves with power door lock actuators (3), power window motors(2), heater blendors and idle solenoids intact? The mystery stalling syndrome I and others on this and other sites experience may hasten my X to that grave! I know this lake...with a ramp... and my parking brake, well like a lot of other things on the truck, she don't work so good officer.

...hmmm...www.unimogcanada.com

I digressed again. If anyone can steer me to a website (preferably in woosy Canuck Bucks and no free trade tariffs ;-) that retails a bulletproof front axle that would bolt on or suggested axles for grave robbing, I'd be forever grateful.

In fact, anyone who can steer me successfully in the right direction can come on one of our day safaris out of Kelowna, British Columbia, Canada...gratis...and bring a friend. Come see what an X can do off pavement (no we don't beat the crap out of it...most of our clients are "active seniors" who don't appreciate rough treatment...just great scenery...move on!)

Cheers,
GeoQwest Excursions Ltd.
www.geoqwestexcursions.com

 

I don't know how much, but they seem to have a bulletproof reputation
http://www.dynatrac.com/

 

what amazes me is that it is stock no lift. correct?

 

I have re-arc the springs and added a leaf. The raise is about 3 inches.

The problems are all internal to the axle. I can accept the drag link joint wear from the pitman as it is at a bit more of an angle than stock. And I can swap it myself.

The trouble I have been having is with the plastic seals on the inside of the knuckle. The teflon(?) inner insert that the half shaft runs through keep wearing out or binding making the entire seal turn and chew apart. Crud gets in and destroys the wheel bearing($800 Canadian) and locking hubs. It is so difficult to detect the seal being damaged that it is usually to late. A telltale tiny movement of the halfshaft by the ujoint where it enters the knuckle is the only way to tell and that involves leaning over the tire to try to wiggle it...hardly something that should be required to drive a 4x4. The seal requires a special hammer to seat it in the knuckle. My Dodge, Explorer and Izuzu never had anything remotely like this.

The differential seals wore out as muddy water can enter the axle tube and work its way into the seal. The rubber grommet at the outer end of the tube is not a seal but works more to keep crud in

The autohubs have a tiny spaghetti Oring more suited to a dental instrument than an axle. Be careful even hitting them with a pressure washer as I've found water past the Oring after a wash.

Ball joints...well we all know that story has gotten old fast. How about a Kingpin setup like the good ol' days.

Maybe it's only my truck but I want this axle gone. I can't trust it to hold together and can't afford routine $600-$1000 repair bills. I might take a chance at unbolting one from a wreck and hope it wasn't built by the same Dude who built my original.

 

Sure it is not bent?

Rev

 

hmmmm...other than getting dirty and wet it has never seen any dramatics. I know forestry and construction contractors who hammer their trucks on a daily basis but have few problems. But you never know. Interesting thought. I'll check it out..Cheers...geoqwest

 

If I am not mistaken you have the Dana 50 up front, I say look for a Dana 60 on ebay or something from a later model super duty from 2002-2005

 

Psst http://www.dynatrac.com/

 

Ford is going to offer a replacment dana 60 from its new super duty line on its Ford racing site http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...ts.asp?type=28 sometime here soon ...

 

You can probably do one of two things. 1, get a 3/4-ton Dana 44 front axle from a lste 70's Ford and swap that in, or 2, get a Dana 60 front end and swap that in. Both of those are 8 lug bolt pattern, but you'll probably have to get custom made rotors sinse the old ones are standard and the new ones are metric. Either way, those two axles shouldn't be too hard to come by, and oughta be fairly simple to rig up to your front end. Under $2k for the swap for certain for the Dana 44, maybe $4k for the 60.