seized
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Elder User
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seized
so what would cause a 9 horse briggs from 1980 to just stick it. The motor was turning fine while i was tuning it and then the motor kind of stopped like the motor brakes applied. The starter couldn't turn it. Then i waited and threw the tractor in gear and rocked back and forth trying to start it....it freed up and runs then did it agian. Oil is old but level was a bit low...
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the only thing i can think of is the mixture/screws. The plug has been in it for a year now and hasn't given any problems. The idle mixture by spec is said to need to be turned out 1.5 turns for tuning. It won't even idle or start unless the screw is out about 3/5 turns. Does this mean i need new jet screws? I'll change the oil tomorrow probably. The intake sucked in a nice amount of water not too long ago...cleaned it out and she ran fine for ohhhh about 4 hours then this happened. Ventilation is okay, timing is okay, spark plug is okay....kind of limits it to jets/screws. or oil.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
Is the full shroud on it? If not, it can overheat, and the rod can clamp down on the crank or the piston can swell up and jam in the bore. It does sound like a heat related issue here, though.
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everything stock is on it excluding a longer pipe for the muffler which has been on it since the day it waspurchased. The tractor is then straight piped so i think some steel wool was packed in the muffler to quiet it down....would this be the cause? i'm ordering new jets sometime soon...
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No need to order new jets. Just take the carb. off of the motor and take it some where to be cleaned. You can do this yourself if know a little on how to take it apart and get the proper carb cleaner to use. Gumout ect.. may cause problems by swelling any rubber o-rings that are used in your carburator (sp?). Also change the oil while you are at it.
Hotshot
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From: iowa
make sure the carb isn't allowing fuel to just flow down the intake, and hydrostatc locking it I have seen that happen on lawn tractors where the fuel tank is higher than the carb. If so buy a kit for the carb, and it will have anew needle,a nd seat and they aren't very expensive, or hard to do.
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will do. I have to do a carb rebuild i'm thinking anyway because the tractor won't idle right. thank you all for the help.
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I believe that you stated that your motor will not turn. Do you really think that the carb has caused your motor to seize? I would look at the things that actually turn or cause back pressure to the crank shaft. Things that come to mind would be something internal to the compression cycle like the pistons, rods, crankshaft, & etc. First I would devide and conquer. Remove the belts if any for fan, alternator, & etc. Then loosen the exhaust manifold to eliminate any exhaust backpressure. Now try to turn it over with the starter. That fails then remove the plugs and put a wrench on the drive shaft and try that. Also examine the plugs sometimes they have a story to tell. This is just something to try when an engine will not turn.
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From: iowa
Originally Posted by EBTDM
I believe that you stated that your motor will not turn. Do you really think that the carb has caused your motor to seize?
Oh, and BTW the carb is 10 times more likely to cause an engine to sieze up or not turn over than an exhaust restriction, the exhaust might cause it to not run but will NOT cause it to sieze up.
Last edited by monsterbaby; Jul 8, 2005 at 11:25 AM.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Southeast Texas
Originally Posted by monsterbaby
yes I really do think a carb can cause it to not turn over...
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I stand corrected on the carb but I have seen and repaired V8s that would not turn over because of clogged catalytic converters and seized alternators & AC compressors.
The obvious as stated by cloleson has not even been hinted at. The oil and exhaust was checked in the beginning of this and no mention of carb flooding or gas smell.
I still suggest that he find the source of the seize and then if it is the carb rip it out for the cleaning and rebuild if needed.
The obvious as stated by cloleson has not even been hinted at. The oil and exhaust was checked in the beginning of this and no mention of carb flooding or gas smell.
I still suggest that he find the source of the seize and then if it is the carb rip it out for the cleaning and rebuild if needed.
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i think i may have overstated or forgot to say that when it seizes all i usually have to do is let it cool for a while, then turn the key to make the starter motor turn and turn the flywheel as hard as i can and it will usually free up and run at full throttle for about 5 or fewer minutes. I figured out that if the motor is not run at full but more like 3/4 throttle it doesn't overheat, but once full throttle is hit when warmed up the motor sticks and stops fast. I haven't been running a filter for a while.....yes i know...bad bad...
the oil wasn't diluted like the other tractor. my green tractor had a hydrolock problem before also....the oil was diluted with fuel, then the crankcase overfilled with liquid causing cylinder 2 to fill with oil and fuel ruining the rings and seals....(kinda like the oil dilution problem on the 6) I'm still confused...worked on the carb an the float wasn't sticking or anything.
the oil wasn't diluted like the other tractor. my green tractor had a hydrolock problem before also....the oil was diluted with fuel, then the crankcase overfilled with liquid causing cylinder 2 to fill with oil and fuel ruining the rings and seals....(kinda like the oil dilution problem on the 6) I'm still confused...worked on the carb an the float wasn't sticking or anything.
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Originally Posted by powerstroke6ltr
i think i may have overstated or forgot to say that when it seizes all i usually have to do is let it cool for a while, then turn the key to make the starter motor turn and turn the flywheel as hard as i can and it will usually free up and run at full throttle for about 5 or fewer minutes. I figured out that if the motor is not run at full but more like 3/4 throttle it doesn't overheat, ................
Things to think about are when you did your tune up did you mess with the timing. Multiple cylinders did you get the firing order correct when you put the plug wires back on. Air cooled engine do you have the proper airflow over the engine. The key is if it ran fair before the tuneup and now you have problems then you may have a very basic problem. Keep it simple.