Help! I can not adjust my timing on my 351M because the distributor is stuck and wll not move. I have tried soaking the area with ATF, oil, and penetrating oil. Have also lightly tapped with a hammer. Thanks for any help. -----Retarded in Illinois--------

 

How long has it been soaking?

You can even try a Can of Coke(yes Coca Cola)



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I just replaced the distributor in my 86 351w with the exact problem. What I did was spray the base of the distibutor with liquid wrench, then using a piece of wood and a rubber mallet I hit the side of the distributor all the way around then put the piece of wood on the top edge (distributor cap and middle cap removed)of the distributor and hit it with the mallet moving the wood all along the edge. I had to spray the base with the liquid wrench a few times and repeat the above process a few times. In between each process I would try to turn the distributor in each direction until it eventually came free.

 

I used heat on mine when it was stuck. If you have a torch just heat up the base and tap it. Worked great.




PSYCHO 1977 F-250 4x4 472cid 4spd., PSYCHO2 19771/2 F-250 4x4 472cid.auto. Pulling Trucks/Race Trucks and goodies to go with them!!!,1987 Mustang GT 5.0 H.O. SNAKEY2. 1989 Mustang LX 5.0 H.O. Spectator Eliminator!
Not worried about gas mileage just performance!!!

 

my 78 4x4 with a 400m did the same thing. i soaked it for about a week and it didn't help. use a crow bar and a hammer. pry up on the bottom of the dist. and then if that doesn't work hit the opposite end of the crow bar with the handle. it should come straight up but still in the teeth of the gear and not hurt anything. oh by the way do you use quaker state oil?

 

I just got done doing the same on my 400 what I used was PB penetrating catalyst. This stuff is great works everytime. Your also gonna help it along with a small piece of 2x4 and a hammer , just don't hit the vacuum pod good luck.

 

you could try one of my old tricks for removing old stuck oil galley plugs. it involves heating the base area and the taking an old candle and applying it to the base. it will cool the dist faster than the block and should loosen the dist. good luck

blueknightcrew

 

I used brake fluid. Pour a little around the distributor where it goes down into the block, loosen the bolt/clamp. I waited a day, then I could turn it with my hand, no hammer needed.
Phil
Panama City, FL

 

 

Start her up and let her get to just befor the thermostat opens and then shut her off and then work at it (that is if it starts).... Brake fluid works great, and so does coke. And if you have some left over.... no dont drink it..... dump it on the oil spots in your driveway, next day hose it off and thre gone... Some guy found this out when he acidently nocked over his beer in the garage and then went to hose it off (the next day) and the grease spot was gone? So he used all sorts of different beers and pops. I have also found that Squirt and Ruby Red Squirt work just as well..

 

The Coke trick works because of the phosphoric acid in the Coke. It breaks down the corrosion on the aluminum distributor base. The corrosion is why the shaft won't come out.

I would think that muriatic acid (the kind you get to clean concrete) would also work, but I haven't tried it yet.

 

On 1 of my 400c.i. truck's i tried alot of those penitratin oil's and coke-a-cola,and the end result was me pulling the intake off and that made it easy to get a pipe wrech on it with the handle of it pointing taward's the fire wall and gave it a nice steady hard pull,and got it to move a tinny little bite,then I went the other way with it,and then just kept working it back inforth untile it popped out,then took the wire wheel to it and when i put it back in with a new rubber oill ring seal,and some NEVERSEIZE on the dis.,and been good to go.It's alot to go through but i would rather buy a intake gasket then a dist.! im in the poor house!The joy of childeren!

 

I have also used CLR to free rusted/coroded things, works well.

-Brents