There ya go! Start at square one, make certain the ignition is at spec.
What ever your manual gives for timing, add 1* for every 2000 feet above sea level. A better manual (I wonder if my brother still has those...) will state this in the footnotes.

Short of an EGA, using a vacume guage to find "best lean idle" is very effective:
Begin with the engine at operating temperature, curb idle, idle screws indexed at 1 1/2 turns out (reference point). Vacume guage attached to manifold vacume. Alternating from side to side, turn idle screws in 1/8 turn at a time, wait a few seconds after each adjustment. When vacume drops, back out that screw 1/8 turn, continue with other screw to do the same.
If vacume drops right away, (from 1 1/2 turn index) back out screws to achieve highest vacume reading, begin procedure from there.
The only other advice I can give is to have a fresh oil change and the engine at operating temp when you go for the test.

Taking this much time and having this much patience got my tired 390 through emissions when it should have failed the visible smoke stage. (full synthetic oil doesn't burn ) The perk is that you have a "happy motor", which makes for a happy driver.

BTW Bear, how expensive are houses in your area? Any financial opportunities for a gearhead-at-large? LOL

 

Converters didn't even come out till like 1974 or so. Of course california was most likely first. I like living in Iowa. (Ohio is gay!)

 

Well I have to take my 68 in but it doesnt have to pass anything. the test on a 68 is so low that if you dont pass your engine is shot and probobly puffing smoke. If you have a crusty carb and stock manifolds it will hurt your test, dont know why it just does.

 

I always make sure to do the fresh oil change too. Then I visit my favorite emission shop that is owned by a drag racer. After a little BS'n, he always tells me "don't worry, we'll get it there".

--Mike