Driver window doesn't move
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Trailering
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 20
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Driver window doesn't move
1997 F-150 XLT with 4.6ltr.
I'm pretty sure at this point that the driver side window crank motor is dead, but want other opinions.
Symptom: click the down button for the driver side and just get a clicking sound of the relay from above the brake release handle. Tried swapping the relay from the passenger side to driver side and didn't help.
Is it possible the motor is just locked up on the gear ?
How are these things removed? I took the door apart and saw what looked like the motor, I saw some big a$$ rivets and three bolts, I'm hoping the motor is not riveted in and that those rivets were for some bracket. I hope the three bolts I saw were for the motor.
if I remove those three bolts is there anything I should be worried about getting back together and meshing with the window crank's gear?
Thanks
I'm pretty sure at this point that the driver side window crank motor is dead, but want other opinions.
Symptom: click the down button for the driver side and just get a clicking sound of the relay from above the brake release handle. Tried swapping the relay from the passenger side to driver side and didn't help.
Is it possible the motor is just locked up on the gear ?
How are these things removed? I took the door apart and saw what looked like the motor, I saw some big a$$ rivets and three bolts, I'm hoping the motor is not riveted in and that those rivets were for some bracket. I hope the three bolts I saw were for the motor.
if I remove those three bolts is there anything I should be worried about getting back together and meshing with the window crank's gear?
Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 740
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The rivits may infact hold the motor in, many us avehicles are built that way, but once you bust the rivits to install the new Motor it will get bolted in should come with new bolts. It does sound like the motor is locked up. when you switched the relays did the driver side relay work in the passside and the pass side just click like the original? if so then it is defanatly the motor (grounded out inturnally) before you do any thing get the new motor to see what holds it up and what rivits need to be broke.
Lance
Lance
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Trailering
Joined: Jun 2005
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Response to Lance
First ,riveting parts in, sucks!!
Yes, once I moved the relays the driver side window still didn't work, but the passenger side did work with the driver side's relay.
I guess I'll try the three bolts first, and pray. If the three bolts do something else then I'll do something else too....at least the window is rolled up for now.
:-)
Chris
Yes, once I moved the relays the driver side window still didn't work, but the passenger side did work with the driver side's relay.
I guess I'll try the three bolts first, and pray. If the three bolts do something else then I'll do something else too....at least the window is rolled up for now.
:-)
Chris
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,406
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
When you go to remove the motor, if I remember right, the window no longer has anything hold it in the UP position. Before you remove the motor, with a pair vice grips or clamps, and a thick shop towel, dish rag etc, clamp the glass right at the bottom to hold it into place. Not enough to really clamp hard just enough to hold the window. Don't want to bust it. You will probably end up using a clamp to get around the door post...unless you have the vise grips c-clamps.
Anyone else have input?
Anyone else have input?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 15
I didn't pay much attention to window motor mounting on my '97 when I pulled off the trim panel and peeled back the watershield for Paintless Dent Repair access.
But don't you drill 1/2" holes at the dimples to get access to the motor mounting screws, just like other Ford trucks? Seems you just have to drill 2 holes on these, not 3 holes like the older ones. BTW, that was/is the factory procedure on full size FOMOCO cars and most Ford trucks since 1970. The f-s cars changed to a driven wire cable in the early '90's, and the procedure changed then on those, I believe.
I've never had a window fall down on me when changing motors, but you can always put a piece of tape on the outside of the glass, then up and over the top of the dorr to the inside glass. Doesn't need much tape. As long as you don't leave it sit out in the hot sun for days that way, the tape will come right off without leaving a mess.
But don't you drill 1/2" holes at the dimples to get access to the motor mounting screws, just like other Ford trucks? Seems you just have to drill 2 holes on these, not 3 holes like the older ones. BTW, that was/is the factory procedure on full size FOMOCO cars and most Ford trucks since 1970. The f-s cars changed to a driven wire cable in the early '90's, and the procedure changed then on those, I believe.
I've never had a window fall down on me when changing motors, but you can always put a piece of tape on the outside of the glass, then up and over the top of the dorr to the inside glass. Doesn't need much tape. As long as you don't leave it sit out in the hot sun for days that way, the tape will come right off without leaving a mess.
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