Possible engine trouble
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New User
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Possible engine trouble
First off I want to say hi and thanks to the FTE folks for a great site.
Now for my problem...
I have a 2001 F150 Scab SB, 5.4L, auto, 2wd with the 7700 package (which I understand makes it a F250 light duty). When I bought it in '03 it had 42k miles on it and in the 23k miles I have put on it I have had NO problems...until a few days ago.
It started up fine but when I went to get on the road it started shaking really bad. I put it in Neutral and it idled fine but as soon as I put it in gear it started sputtering. I drove it a short distance to the house during which I got up to speeds near 50 mph, the shaking was not consistent but it was most noticeable in the low (750-1500) rpms, during acceleration and going up a hill.
My recent list of maintenance includes: front end alignment, tranny flush, rear diff fluid change, regular oil changes, freshly cleaned K&N, some STP injector cleaner and brand new tires. Any advice you guys and gals can give would be appreciated.
Thanks,
BOO
Now for my problem...
I have a 2001 F150 Scab SB, 5.4L, auto, 2wd with the 7700 package (which I understand makes it a F250 light duty). When I bought it in '03 it had 42k miles on it and in the 23k miles I have put on it I have had NO problems...until a few days ago.
It started up fine but when I went to get on the road it started shaking really bad. I put it in Neutral and it idled fine but as soon as I put it in gear it started sputtering. I drove it a short distance to the house during which I got up to speeds near 50 mph, the shaking was not consistent but it was most noticeable in the low (750-1500) rpms, during acceleration and going up a hill.
My recent list of maintenance includes: front end alignment, tranny flush, rear diff fluid change, regular oil changes, freshly cleaned K&N, some STP injector cleaner and brand new tires. Any advice you guys and gals can give would be appreciated.
Thanks,
BOO
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
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I had just filled it up with 21 gallons of 87 about 2 hours (maybe 20 miles of driving) before I started having problems.
To tell you the truth I didnt notice the check engine light but thats not to say it did not come on.
There was a lack of power, especially under load. I visually inspected the wiring but since I am no mechanic I took it to a shop this morning. I will keep you all informed.
Thanks for the input!
To tell you the truth I didnt notice the check engine light but thats not to say it did not come on.
There was a lack of power, especially under load. I visually inspected the wiring but since I am no mechanic I took it to a shop this morning. I will keep you all informed.
Thanks for the input!
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,735
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From: TX
It is most likely a COP (Coild On Plug). If that is what it is, you can do it yourself very easily. Just two (I believe 8mm) bolts hold them down, and one electrical connection. See if you can get your mechanic to tell you which one it is.
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Elder User
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Thats my question if it were a bad plug, or coil was wrong there would be a check engine light on and it would tell you there was a mis fire and on what cylinder, the beauty of the Codes. or if it's a sensor or what ever. the cpu runs the engine (manages).
Lance
Lance
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I just spoke to the mechanic and he said he has not had a chance to hook any diagnostic device up to it but the CEL did NOT come on when he test drove it.
The bad thing is that I was headed to the dealership the next day to trade it in on a newer model when it started acting up.
The bad thing is that I was headed to the dealership the next day to trade it in on a newer model when it started acting up.
Elder User
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That's messed up. If the CEL is not comming on and it should. Then and I hate to say this but it could be the main brain. There is a drivability test he can do with the scanner though. (drive the vehicle with the scanner hooked up and look at what all the systems are doing.) did any body try disconnecting the battery for 15 min then rehook up? Mine was so messed up a week ago after i installed the new O2 sensores that it would not except the scanner, so I unplugged the battery and then hooked it back up started running fine and excepted the scanner there was no problems, still driving fine. I probably got lucky.
Lance
Lance
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: duncan oklahoma
the reason the cel light isnt coming on is because fords newer computer are designed to only check for a miss on start up for so many rpm's,then it has to see a consecutive mis for so many more rpm's before it will turn the light on.then once it stores the code,you replace the coil on plug assy. and the plug too.make sure the engine is cool so you dont pull the threads out of the head.the bolts a 7mm and use die electric grease on the inside of the boot before installing the c.o.p.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: California Desert
When I first test drove my truck I had a small miss and some shaking especially under load. The dealer took a look at it and it turned out two of the COP's were fried because of pressure washing under the hood. They were replaced and I bought the truck. The CEL never came on.
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The mechanic said one of the wires came loose from the #4 COP, he reconnected it but it was still bucking like a bronco. This time it DID give a CEL code and his diagnostic machine indicated a misfire in #4. He is going to replace the COP and see if that fixes the problem.