Can someone go over with me how to degree a cam. I have done some reading on it but I am still not real sure on it.


Thanks
-Brandon-

 

check out this Isky page. it has pretty good instructions.

http://www.iskycams.com/degreeing.html

basically, your mission is to find the true top-dead-center for your engine's rotating assembly, then install your cam shaft so that it's valve movements are as advertised (or off slightly if you desire).

you need:
- a degree wheel
- a pointer mounted to the block that points out your position on the degree wheel
- a dial guage mounted inside the lifter valley (usually using one of the intake manifold bolt holes in the head) so that the movement of the cam lobes pushes up on the dial gauge.


My 2 cents, it's takes a little time, some special tools and it's good learning. But, for most mild FE builds just stick the cam in straight up and go.

 

As long as you bought a "good" quality cam....it will be close enough that you shouldn't have to worry. It will usually be off by a degree or two somewhere...they always are. I would bet my next paycheck(or .20 which ever is higher LOL ) that it will not make any difference in the way it runs.

Now, maybe to Warren Johnson it might.........but seat of the pants....NEVER!

Not to say checking it is not a good idea. If you have the tools and can do it properly...go for it.

 

how much does a degree wheel cost and where can i find one (like a local NAPA store or more like at a racing shop)


If it does not cost that much i might just get one to try to see if i can get any of it right

But if it is not needed then i am not going to worry to much about it

 

You'll probably have to find a performance shop to get a degree wheel. I think mine cost about $40.

Aren't you running one of the popular Crane cams? Those are high volume parts, and are probably less likely to be "way off". Still, its'a good learning experience and another chance to check things are working as you hope.

 

Yeah one of those 941 cams. I worrry about everything so i might get it just to check


do you have your truck back on the road yet?

 

stop worrying, bolt it together, you probaly won't have any problems...and its a not easy for the average home mechanic...just finding TDC is hard for the average guy(due to piston dwell time)

 

Nah, my tuck is still in my shop. I've been sick for a bout a week and half now....just barely done any wrenching at all. Maybe this coming weekend (Wed. for me).

As for finding TDC, using a piston stop tool (goes in the spark plug hole) is a good way. I think that might be mentioned in those Isky instructions.

 

If this link works it's a free printable degree wheel. http://www.tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html

G.

 

I don't know about the Crane cam, but I'm running a Comp. 292H in a 390+ advanced 4 degrees( actually about 8 because they are indexed 4 degrees advanced when installed straight up) and it helped from about 1500 thrugh 6800 RPM. Definately noticed the difference in the low end. And I didn't degree it in, just used the multi indexed lower sprocket. Good Luck.

 

I went to install my cam with a stock-type timing chain and I couldn't even get it close. I tried another timing chain, same thing - not even close. I'm talking about being off by 8 degrees or more.

On many engines, like the Ford 400, the cam was retarded to lower emissions. All that you needed to do was advance the cam and you found lots of low-end torque.

You can get a degree wheel off of ebay for a pretty good price.

You'll need a degree wheel and a dial indicator. I spent hours getting my cam set, but I learned a lot and I'm certain that I'll get all the power that the engine is capable of making.

I made a 'positive stop' with angle iron and a bolt. I bolted the 'positive stop' over a piston. I had to re-do it several times because I found that you had to get it bolted in place really good. If it's on there half fast, it will move when the piston comes up near TDC. Once I had the stop on there real good where it wouldn't get moved by the piston, but really stop, I bolted the degree wheel onto the front of the crank with the crank damper bolt.

I made a pointer out of a wire coat hanger and bent it around until it was pretty near the zero with the piston up against the stop. I flattened end of the coat hanger to make a really accurate pointer. Make a note of where it's pointing. Rotate the engine in the other direction until the piston touches the stop. Note the reading on the degree wheel. Move the degree wheel until you get the same difference from zero in both direction, like 16 degrees before and after TCD when you rotate the engine in both directions. Now you've found TDC. Remove the stop.

Now you'll need to put a dry lifter in on the intake lobe of the number one cylinder. I used the hollow plastic body of a stick type pen to make an exension on the tip of the dial indicator so that it would reach down from the deck of the block to the lifter. Once I had the dial indicator set onto the lifter, I rotated the engine until I was sure I was on the base circle of the cam.

I had a cam card, but you can figure it out without the cam card. Just zero the dial indicator while it's on the base circle, and start rotating the engine. When you see the dial indicator move .050, note where the pointer is pointing on the degree wheel. Continue to rotate the engine until the dial indicator goes back down to .050. Note the position of the dial indicator. Split the difference. That's the lobe center. Now repeat the process for the exhaust. Get its lobe center. They need to be the same distance from TDC, like 112 degrees before and after TDC.

You might be shocked at how far off it will be. You don't want it to be really retarded. Slightly advanced, like 2 degrees, is ok.

I used a RollMaster chain to get it set right. There was a manufacturing flaw with my chain, the keyway that was supposed to be -6 was -8 degrees, but I was able to get within 1 degee (advanced) of what I was shooting for. Like I said, it took hours, but I got it right.

 

freighttrain, Warren's going down the #1 spot belongs back with Greg Anderson despite the red light he did last sunday and jason line. Yes a few degrees off will make a difference if your running pump gas with your BMEP in the 184 to 190 zone, cam error can be ground off a few degrees, 165 to 180 who cares, but allow for retarded cam with chain stretch. Dynamic compression controls the motor. Every cam install should be dial indicated no matter who makes it as well as timing chain sets, errors compound.
.....=o&o>.....

 

If it is off how do you go about making corrections?

 

your crank timing gear should have several keyway slots to chose from, marked 0, +4 etc...

 

got you i am on the stick now. Now it all makes more since to me

thanks