I have a 2000 F250. I have been having a major pulsing problem in the brakes. I thought that the front rotors were warped from heat so I took them down and had them turned. They were not bad at all. So new pads and fresh turn. Still major surge after they warm up. This is not to say that it is not noticable before they warm up just not as bad.

I have looked at the rear and they look ok. It could be them but I would not think so. I am coming of the opinion that it could be the ABS. The surge is of that sort. Very rapid at higher speeds and more pronounced at slower speeds. My question is has anyone else experienced this and is it possible to bypass the ABS to check it. Also when I put a large load in the bed it goes away. Like the
proportioning valve might have something to do with it.

 

Same issues here with my 00 F250 4x4.
I replaced front rotors and pads last week with Bendix rotors. It helped, but did not eliminate the pulsing. What I now notice is I have a slight pulse while slowing from low speeds and a more pronounced heavy pulse-to almost wheel hop-If I stand on the brakes from higher speed. My opinion is that the rear rotors are also warped. When braking, the front brakes initially do the stopping and the harder you push the pedal, the rear brakes then kick in. Since my pulsating is now more pronounced when braking hard, I believe my issue is probably the rear rotors. I've just picked up a set of rear rotors and will replace the rear brakes this weekend. Hoping this fixes the issue.

As for the ABS-I don't think it kicks in unless you brake real hard, so you should not feel it unless your standing on the brakes, IMO. A slight pulsating feel under normal braking is more than likely warped rotors.

 

Thanks for the reply. I almost did the same thing with new rear rotors but I still don't that it will fix it. The reason I am still looking at the ABS is because the pulse is how the abs works when it is activated. I think it is falsly being activated and causing the pulse. Mine is doing the same as yours if I am at freeway speeds and have to come to a fast stop it is almost uncontrollable with the pulse. The thing that makes me think it is in the breaking system is when I put a load in the truck all of the pulse stops.

I will be waiting to see if the rear rotors fix it for you if so I am right down to the autoparts store for a pair.

Thanks again for your reply.

 

guys..try disabling the ABS for a few miles.. you pull the only big 60amp fuse in the under the hood fuse box and its off... i pulled my fuse when the shizzy abs almost LET me rearend somebody when i was pulling a big TT.. i pulled that fuse when my truck had 14k miles on it... two years and 45k miles later.. i have not put that fuse back in.... you'd be amazed.

 

Jetjock-I think I'll also try pulling the fuse-I hate ABS. I've nearly rearended a few people in this truck due to ABS. Thanks.

 

Interesting. Never thought about it here in Minnesota, but it you're not driving on either ice or oil, ABS is probably more trouble than its worth....

 

That's IF you're not driving on either ice or oil....

 

I went throught the same brake problem with my old truck a 2000 4*4 F350 SD. This is clearly not your ABS. To prove this, do a panic stop with the ABS on on a wet parking lot, versus with the Fuse disconnected. ABS is pretty dramatic and its pulsing is not related to speed but slippage. So now, once proven that ABS isn't the problem....

Change the rotors (don't turn them below min. thickness, they will just warp again right away) and new pads, make sure you use only a torque wrench on the wheels and re torque a few times 100 Miles after having them un done. Especially so with Aluminum wheels, this is an issue. I tried the same thing, just changing the fronts and pads, problem was in all of them. Also, when reassemling, be sure to properly lube the caliper pins. A dry wet pin will cause hang up of one side of the caliper and create the same types of pulsing.

On disconnecting the anti lock, I would disconnect for troubleshooting but not permanent. ABS will stop you faster on slippery surfaces than regular braking hands down. Try it in a slippery empty parking lot, I bet you can't even come close to ABS. The beauty of ABS is you can also still steer and control the vehicle while you are stoppong. You can't brake each wheel independantly when one slips, but ABS can. When you release the brake you release all of them thus increasing your stopping distance more than if anti lock only released one wheel or two. I drive in northern winter and gravel roads. ABS has saved my truck and I several times, its also saved a few moose's.

Ah Master card, one set of rotors, one set of pads, makeshift parking lot skid pad, 1000 dollars in parts. Locking up the SD and making lots of noise and smole, worth every penny. It really scares the guy in the firefly in front of you at a light too :-)

 

Thanks guys for the replys.

I went out this weekend and pulled the rotors and had them turned. It only took .004 to straighten them out so they were not bad. The previous post is correct it is the caliper pins. This is the third time I have found it and I am fully convinced that they are the problem. I had the same thing on the front. Dry pins, cleaned and lubed up with a good grease and good to go and no problems. When I went to put the rear back on I found one side was very dry and stuck and the other side was medium. Cleaned and lubed them as well and no more pulse. I also found this to be true on my Expo. So if anyone finds the pulse look at the pins first.

Thanks again.