93 Ranger 4.0 pinging, bogging...
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Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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93 Ranger 4.0 pinging, bogging...
Point of information.
My 93 Ranger with 4.0L and automatic started pinging when going up slight hills etc. We changed to mid grade fuel and it made it better for a while. Then it started pinging again and every once in a while the "Check Engine" light would come on. Then the "CE" light started coming on and off many times. The engine was also stumbling when cold when the accelerator was pushed. The AC made it worse. No codes were being stored. A test with an off brand diagnostic tester and an inexperienced mechanic did not find the problem. A test with a "Snap ON" diagnostic unit at a local garage by an experienced mechanic diagnosed the problem. A new/reman airflow sensor fixed the problems. We had to make our own replacement gasket tho. We used cork gasket material but even thin cardboard would have worked.
My 93 Ranger with 4.0L and automatic started pinging when going up slight hills etc. We changed to mid grade fuel and it made it better for a while. Then it started pinging again and every once in a while the "Check Engine" light would come on. Then the "CE" light started coming on and off many times. The engine was also stumbling when cold when the accelerator was pushed. The AC made it worse. No codes were being stored. A test with an off brand diagnostic tester and an inexperienced mechanic did not find the problem. A test with a "Snap ON" diagnostic unit at a local garage by an experienced mechanic diagnosed the problem. A new/reman airflow sensor fixed the problems. We had to make our own replacement gasket tho. We used cork gasket material but even thin cardboard would have worked.
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Phoenix
I hate to tell you this but you likely did not need to replace it. Didn't even need to remove the unit. You can clean the sensor wires by disconnecting the electrical connector, taking 2 torx head screws off, and lifting the sensing unit off the aluminum body. Skirt the sensor wires with berryman's carb cleaner, not Gumout (leaves a residue). No need to brush off the wires mechanically. The carb cleaner blast seems to be good enough. Reassemble, disconnect battery to clear codes, and you're good to go blasting up hill. Total cost about $2.49 for a can of carb cleaner.
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Posting Legend
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Sometimes that works and sometimes not. The shop that diagnosed the problem would not clean it. They will only replace it. If I would have had the time to mess around with it I probably would have paid the diagnostic fee, taken it home, and tried the cleaning method. I could have always replaced it if it did not work. As it was I had to leave town and did not have time to mess with it. I did not want to have to pay another diagnostic fee later either.
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From: Phoenix
I'm interested to get the feedback from others with 4.0 MAF engines that have run into the lean/pinging condition where the MAF sensor was the problem and cleaning it did not fix the problem and the unit had to be replaced. I have never heard that a MAF sensor fails towards a lean running engine condition where it did not produce this symptom because it was not dirty. I am not saying this can not happen. It's an electrical device that could fail in a manner of ways. Yet I've never heard from one person where cleaning it did not cure a lean condition. Many on the web and in these forums attest to cleaning and if it's not as fail safe a solution as we believe, it would be good to hear where/how this does not work.
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Posting Legend
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Mine had already been cleaned once a couple of years ago with carb cleaner with no effect on the pinging. I don't know if carb cleaner is the proper cleaner tho. I think I remember some cleaner in the parts store made for the task. I just have not been in there recently looking in that section. Since the diagnosis said the unit was bad I would have tried it again with the proper cleaner if I had the time to mess with it. As it is, the replacement works well and the truck runs great on regular gas again, no bogging, hesitation, or pinging.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
Cleaning is always a good first option, but I've read about several 4.0Ls that needed a new MAF after multiple cleanings failed to cure the problem. The MAF's "hot wire" filament operates at over 400*F and gets constantly bombarded with dirt, oil, moisture, etc. which can break down the filament over time. So the sensor can get damaged, as opposed to just getting dirty.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Lanham,MD
Cleaned my 95 Aerostar MAF 4.0L AWD and it lasted a few months. Replaced it with a reman. and it stopped running. The old one is back on cleaned again 235,000 miles.
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Post Fiend
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From: Eastern WA
Originally Posted by B-Aerostar
Cleaned my 95 Aerostar MAF 4.0L AWD and it lasted a few months. Replaced it with a reman. and it stopped running. The old one is back on cleaned again 235,000 miles.
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From: Phoenix
Good point. CRC carb cleaner does have oil in it. Berrymans's carb cleaner works fine. Brake cleaner is also another good choice as it dries nice and clean.
In my experience, the argument that K & N oiled filters cause the MAF to get dirty faster is mere theoretical. I have such a filter and have not noticed an issue over the last 35K or so miles. That's my experience. And if you keep up with the cleaning as a regular maintenance item, you should be covered.
In my experience, the argument that K & N oiled filters cause the MAF to get dirty faster is mere theoretical. I have such a filter and have not noticed an issue over the last 35K or so miles. That's my experience. And if you keep up with the cleaning as a regular maintenance item, you should be covered.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Brantford
93 4.0L seems to be doing the same thing or at least close symptoms.....
low idle runs rough and check engine light comes on, if you get on it check engine light goes away but after driving for 5 min after it will come back on and go away and so on.... failed an emision test they say the trucks running rich..... its also makeing antifreeze disapear.... because of the last one im thinking head gaskets might be gone...
low idle runs rough and check engine light comes on, if you get on it check engine light goes away but after driving for 5 min after it will come back on and go away and so on.... failed an emision test they say the trucks running rich..... its also makeing antifreeze disapear.... because of the last one im thinking head gaskets might be gone...