Power Window Gets Stuck
I am new to this forum. I recently bought an 88 Bronco. I have been learning alot from these message boards. I was hoping to get some light shed on this issue.
My first project was the drivers side power window motor. The window worked the first few days I owned it, then just stopped in the up position. I pulled the door panel and drilled out the rivets holding the regulator. I then pulled the motor from the assembly. I then plugged the motor back in and it worked. I did a little more reading and decided to get the replacement pins instead of a new motor.
After replacing the pins the motor worked fine, I re assembled it and put it back in the door. It went up and down and up and that was it. Nothing..., stuck in the up position again.
I pulled it back out and tested it, it runs fine. Put it back in and as long as I don't run it up hard, it goes back down. If I inch it up it's fine.
I did a little more investigating and it seems there is flex in the door panel. What I mean by that is when the window regulator pushes up the window the door seems to kind of flex outward (or inward into the vehicle) from the pressure of the regulator pushing up on the window. I also noticed the window regulator bushing seems to be sticking out the end of the window track. It seems to be about 1/4" from poping out all together. I think when I run the window up hard the regulator is getting stuck in the track since it almost comes out the end.
My question is Should I get a new motor, regulator, window track, or all three? I really don't want to buy parts I don't need or that won't fix my problem. Does anyone have experience with a weak motor which jams at the end of the regualtor gear? would a new rebuilt motor have more power and be able to force the window down after being run up all the way? Or is the motor I have fine and the regulator or bushing needing to be replaced?
Any help would be appreciated since I would like to not replace parts until it works by trial and error.
Thanks
Sal
1988 EB Bronco - 302 - AOD - 3.55 Limited Slip - Manual Hubs and Transfer Case - BFG 32/11.5 AT - 208,000 miles
One thought - when its stuck in the up position, have the door open and watch the dome light while you move the switch to have it go down. Do this with the engine off, so its all on battery power.
If the dome light dims as long as you have the switch down, then the motor is getting power, but it is stalled. Stalled probably because it has too much of a load on it. Then your track observation may be where the problem is.
But, if the dome light doesn't dim while you hold the switch down, then the motor probably has a dirty/worn commutator, and the motor's armature isn't getting decent power. You could try sanding the commutator with fine sandpaper, being sure to get all the grit out before closing it up again. But a new motor would be better.
To see what a good running motor stalled against a too-heavy mechanical load should look like on the dome light, run your other side window up against the top stop, and hold it there for a moment. The motor should stall, should go quiet, and the dome lamp dims.
(but instead if you hear a rrrr-rrrr-rrrr sound, then that other windows motor gearcase has the pegs broken off of the back of its spur gear. Fix another gear time!)
I don't think the light dims, my recollection of it is you cannot even tell the switch has been activated. So I do think its the motor not getting enough power in the up position to bring it down. I would say the speed at which it goes up and down is fair to good at best.
Unfortunately I did not compare it to the passenger side as that side has never worked. I am going to open that today and get them both done at the same time. I think 2 new motors are in my future, but I got a good education in the inner workings of a power window assembly and gear pin replacement ;>).
I'll let you know how it works out, thanks for the advice.
Sal
Sal



