Im installing new head gaskets in a 79 400, but I cannot remember what my old manual( cant find it) said about the torque sequence and final torque values..anyone got the specs and sequence from the manual???

 

95-105...step 1 is 65...step 2 is 75... and 95-105 final torque

 

10-4.....thanks

 

3-8-2-9-7-4-6-5-10-1 or similar squeeze from center out X pattern. Oil threads and clamp area interface. Block threads should chased already with tap (while appying vacuum, if still assembled short block, otherwise cleaned) and bolts threads cleaned on wire brush. GL

 

Thanks for asking Eastvanmikee, I needed to know myself.

Ecuri, I understood the oiling of threads but what is clamp area interface? Is it the mating surfaces of the block and heads?

 

sorry, I was trying to think of what the real name is for whatever you call the donut-shaped area under the head of the bolt where it sqeezes down on the head... anyway, it should be oiled, it just takes a drop or two. block and heads surfaces should be super-clean of oil or anything and dry.

 

Thanks. I thought I read the heads and block surfaces were to be oil free and dry, but wasn't sure. The head gasket gets no sealant whatsoever right? Any need to use rubbing alcohol on the surfaces?

 

Correct! no sealants! I think the gaskets can also be flipped accidentally and block a water passage. They have a little tab that sticks out by #1 and #8 holes on the outboard side of the engine. They should come with intructions. The surfaces should be de-greased prior, never tried alchohol. I wipe surfaces right before installation with a spirits soaked rag to get the heavy oil off, then spray with a little brake cleaner and finish with a quick drying blast of compressed air. It is a good idea to cover the valley and stick some rags in the bores when you clean the block surface so you don't wipe or blow any loose dirt into the internals. After I get it clean and take the rags out I shop-vac the valley and holes for little grit that might have fallen of the rags. (I am really **** about getting a clean assembly!) I am generally working with clean parts on a stand, you may want to skip the compressed air on the block if it is dirty and/or in the car, you sure don't want to put any dirt into the engine. 90 PSI air really shove dirt into places it wouln't otherwise go. Make sure you didn't forget or loose either of the locating ring dowels (2 per head). GL

 

I'll follow your prescription, mine is on a stand. I will also check for the two dowels make sure they are there. Thanks for the detail too.

 

No problem! Don't forget to check your lifter pre-load after you get the heads on.

 

Alright, I was gonna wait until I got the heads on to start asking about this. I've got a thread going on rockers. was going to see the responses i got on that to digest the next move.

But since you menioned it... tell me what lifter preload, and if you follow the same level of detail as before, I might even do it right

 

http://cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=3
Is good except where they say "scribe a line on the pushrod", use a fine-line sharpie pen.

and/or

Search the posts here, there was a long thread a year or more ago where we discussed 2 or three different methods with stock rockers. Not that I don't want to tell you, it's just been done before and better than I can do it again!

 

There are numerous threads on setting the preload. Just enter the word "preload" in the search box and then put on the reading glasses

 

will do... gonna do the search now and print it out ... probably put it to test tomorrow. been painting sheet metal, brackets and what not today. what gets painted Ford Red?