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7.3 shuts down

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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 10:56 PM
  #1  
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7.3 shuts down

My 2000 7.3 shuts down with no warning or trouble lights. 40k on truck. no trouble codes apear. just like the key was shut off. On most occassions it will re start by turning key off and waiting for start light to go off. Has anyone had tthis problem. It can be frustrating and dangerous in traffic but usually only happens at lights when stopping or intersections when accelerating.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 07:03 AM
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 06:43 PM
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My dad actually just asked me about his '01 7.3L Excursion doing the same thing. He said it happens at lights and while going down the highway at any speed. He says if he is going fast enought the truck will actually start itself back up, I guess from the torque converter still being locked up. He said if it does it whle he is sitting at a light then he has toput it into neutral and crank it back up again. But basically he describes it as a total electrical shutdown. The dealership he has taken it to (several times) has yet to find anything, and it hasn't happened to the service techs anytime they test drove it. Any help on this topic is definitely appreciated. This site has been great at hellping me solve problems with my '04 6.0 F-250 in the past.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 09:56 PM
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My first gues would be the common CPS (Camshaft Position Sensor) failure. Find an International dealership hand over around $100 bucks or if you really like your Ford dealership you could pay them double for the same part and try it out.

At 185K I had an odd problem with the 99 PSD truck. After a hard acceleration on snow the trucks SES light came on and ran really bad until it was shut down and restarted. By the second day the truck would run normal. A small diesel shop up the road replaced the CPS and intake heater probe which had grounded out and all was good for 500 miles, then more problems. The second waves of problems felt like the truck was running out of fuel and would start. The intake heater relay and glow plug relay was replaced and some shorted out wires were located on the outside of the valve covers. 193K miles to date and all seems well.

If the CPS don't fix the problem don't take the truck to Ford rather find a very good diesel only mechanic to trouble shoot your problems.

Good luck!!!
 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 11:13 PM
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From: colorado
sounds like a CPS to me as well, here is some helpfull info on it:

CPS PROBLEM

This applies to all PowerStroke motors from late 1994 to 2002.

Diagnosis: A bad cam position sensor is usually signified by the PowerStroke motor abruptly and unexpectedly quitting. The motor may also be suffering from slight power loss and slight increase in fuel usage which is usually not noticeable until it is seen as an improvement when the sensor is replaced. When the CPS causes the motor to shut down, the tachometer will not register. If the motor fails to restart, the tachometer will not register when the starter is turning the motor over. This may or may not cause the check engine light to come on.

Part Numbers: The International parts are usually half the price of Ford's, and I wouldn't buy one from Ford unless you absolutely had to.

International part numbers:

A change occurred mid way through 1997, so if you have a 97 it is best to look at the engine serial number. For serial number before serial number 375549 use PN# 1821720C98. For serial number 375549 (including this number) and after use PN# 1825899C93.

Ford Part Numbers:

For 1996 and older use PN# F6T012K073A For 1997 and newer use PN# F7T012K073A


Remove/Replace: CPS replacement is a very simple process. It is located at the 10 o'clock position of the crankshaft pulley and secured with one 10 mm bolt. Removing the serpentine belt will facilitate the removal.

Step 1) Make sure key is off and disconnect battery or pull #9 fuse. This is always a good idea when working on engine electronics.
Step 2) Remove engine belt
Step 3) Unplug wiring plug from sensor by prying out on the little plastic tab and pushing it out of it's socket
Step 4) Use 10 mm socket with small extension to remove 10 mm bolt
Step 5) Clean any dirt or grease off of sensor and surrounding area to prevent contamination of crankcase oil and seal of new sensor
Step 6) Use pliers, pry bar, or whatever else to gently remove sensor by pulling it straight out. It may be slightly stuck and slight force may be needed to loosen it. It is ok to twist it in its socket to loosen it if necessary.
Step 7) Coat new sensor o-ring with clean engine oil and press sensor into hole.
Step 8) Replace 10 mm bolt, torque to 10 ft-lbs, or just make sure it is snug.
Step 9) Replace wiring plug by simply pressing it into position until you hear the holding tab click into place.
Step 10) Replace belt.
Step 11) Ensure battery has been disconnected or #9 fuse has been out for at least 30 minutes. After this amount of time, they can be replaced.
Step 12) Start engine and inspect for leaks or other problems. Make sure belt has been properly aligned on each of the pulleys.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 07:12 AM
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Camshaft position sensor - common failure with symptoms just like you described. Napa sells them as well as Ford.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 02:46 PM
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From: Sanford FL
Smile

Thank you all very much for your much needed help. I've printed out the directions and part numbers you gave and I'll let him know how to fix his problems. This place is great, a very valuable resource for any and all of the issues (good or bad) that arise with our trucks.
 
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