Me too 'cause I heard those things make like 30psi @ 1000cfm for $39.95. I figure two of 'em will put me in the low 9's.

 

I just saw this post. Hope this will help you decide. I have the V-10 with the Whipple Supercharger. Check my gallery. Since it didn't come with an intercooler, I had this installed. Really helped a lot.
http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/waterinjected.htm

For any questions about blowers, nitrous and superchargers, go to this website. The guys that run the website installed all my speed mods. The install Blowers, Nitrous, Turbos, Superchargers and other stuff. Hope this helps you.
http://www.got-pressure.com/yabbse/index.php

 

Great! I just wanted to clarify because I know that my writing style (especially when rushed, as I often am here since I'm squeezing this into my busy life) sometimes comes across a lot more harsh than intended, and often sarcastic. Like I said I'm not trying to step on peoples toes, but rather avoid generalizations where possible, whether I make them or someone else.

I feel really bad when I see new guys starting out spend a ton of money, or a ton of time (or sadly, both) to end up with a result that doesn't work at all.

Why? Because I've been there, done that. For every project that I make that has excellent results (like my 75 dodge extended cab that spanked just about everything on the road), there were at least two prior experiments that I won't mention.

 

I've done a lot of experimentation with water/isopropol injection and I have to say overall, I found it to be extremely helpful, with or without an intercooler. I prefer 1/2 distilled water and 1/2 isopropol because the alcohol burns and the water cleans the engine amazingly enough, yet both flash-evaporate under high boost absorbing a lot of heat, cooling the intake charge.

The best "homemade" system I put together was an in-line fuel pump out of an F-series, (late 80's) because they had stainless impellers, thus not damaged by water or alcohol. For a storage tank I used a 5 gallon air tank (tire inflation tank actually), upside down, with the "air hose" replaced with a fuel hose, feeding the jets in the plenum/intake/whatever. Because the air tank's oriface was rather small, it took some work to refill it, but there are air tanks now with much larger ports for air suspensions and such, 1/2 or even 3/4, and they are fairly inexpensive.

It's important to have more pressure on the alky/water than you have boost, so you can get some of that extra "stuff" into the engine. I wasted a lot of time trying to do the washer bottle thing, though others have claimed they got that working well. Me, I ended up with air bubbles in my washer tank - from teh boost provided by the turbos. I had installed a check valve to stop the backflow of air, but I couldn't get any of the fluid in the washer tank out easily. What I ended up doing was plumbing a hose to the top of the washer tank to the plenum, so that the top of the tank was at the same pressure as the outlet at the bottom, then using the washer pump to change that differential slightly. That worked fine for about an hour, until the washer tank expanded and exploded. 25psi of boost will do that

 

The Kennedy kit comes with a separate water tank and motor to deliver the water. I use half methanol and half water. I wish I had your expertise Frederic. I found that my talent is Driving and not working as the Pit Mechanic.

 

I'm running a Kenne Bell (7 psi) with a water/methanol injection kit from Snow Performance. Right now the truck isn't quite tuned for it yet. That's all about to change though. My only complaint with the KB kit is the switch chip. My factory tranny crapped out so I had a Factory Tech Monster Box installed and the chip and tranny doesn't work to well together. The only way you are going to get the most out of a supercharger is by getting it dyno tuned. I'm getting my truck dyno tuned and will be using a 4-Bank chip from SCT to get it all dialed in. Really looking forward to it because the guy that is doing it for definitely knows what he is doing. He is a dealer for SCT and is currently running a 2001 Lightning that puts down some pretty awesome numbers (10.59 @ 127 mph). I feel pretty confident that he will be able to hook me up. I'll be posting numbers once I get this done on 8 July.

 

Sounds good to me. When I first got the Whipple, it doesnt come with a chip and they told me that their computer module set everything up for the Whipple and not to get a chip that will change any of the settings. So, I got a custom made SCT chip that just cut out the rpm and mph governor and made it run a little leaner because the Whipple program was a little on the rich side. The guy that installed the Whipple became a dealer for SCT and whenever I add a mod, he hooks up his laptap and programs the engine for peak performance. I still remember when you got a tune up, the mechanic got some grease on his hands. Have you gotten any times at the dragstrip?

 

No track times yet, I'm waiting till I get it all dialed in then it will be off to the track. I'm not expecting anything to good out of a 7500 lb truck but I'm sure it will do alright. As long as I can beat my buddies 6.0L Power Stroke I'll be happy. Skipper, any dyno numbers on your rig? Aside from the brand of blower we have about the same setup. After I get mine tuned I'd be curious to compare similar setups.

 

Believe it or not, I never took it to be dynoed. I would just go to the track and see how my times improved. The first time I went to the track was June 2003 when the truck was stock. I ran the 1/4 in 17.02@81.12mph.

After I added a Superchip, K&N FIPK, Cutout on my exhaust, Magnaflow Straight Through Cat, Factory Tech Valve Body and Toyo Proxes S/T 275/60/16 tires, I could floor the truck off the line and have no burning of tires. I ran the 1/4 in 16.68@83.26. After adding the Whipple Supercharger, Electric Fans, Kennedy Water Injection System and Meziere Electric Water Pump, my best time, with fishtailing down the track and having to take my foot off the gas to obtain traction, I ran the 1/4 mile in 15.04@92.92mph. Since then, I have added the Y Pipe. Which, just by the sound of the muffler, much louder, and how it felt, like it gave me more power on the lower and much more power on the top end. I went to the track.

Even easing the gas pedal off the line and then flooring it, for the first time, I got extreme wheel hop, felt like I was riding a bucking horse, then when it stopped the wheel hop, I was fishtailing sideways down the track until again, I had to take my foot off the gas so I could gain traction. I ran the 1/4 in 15.03@90.37. I was truly pissed that I could not get all the power to the ground. I know what you are all thinking. PUT SLICKS ON! Look I use this truck as a daily driver plus at my age, I dont feel like putting slicks on everytime I go to the track, which is once a month. Anyway the next morning after coming home from the track, I ordered an Eaton PosiTraction and Chassis Tech Traction Bars. They are sitting in the back room and will be installed next week.

Stay tuned for when I go to the track again. I really have the most fun with this truck dragracing on the street and racing cars and trucks on the highway from 60 or 80 up. On the streets and highway racing, I have never lost to a blown F-150 Harley and I can beat some Lightnings!! As long as I am rolling a little and can get traction, the smile stays on my face. By the way, there are no stickers or badges on the outside of the truck that says it has a Whipple Supercharger. When ricers and trucks race me, the look on their faces, in the side view mirrors, PRICELESS.

 

How is it possible for you to gauge how well your parts are working when you're spinning the tires halfway down the track??? Daily driver or not, you go to the track once a month only to burn up your highway tires. Why not buy a set of sticky tires, save your stock rubber and get some more consistant times that will help determine how much power you're actually making. I bet if you borrowed a set of slicks and went down the track one time, you'd really see and feel the difference...I know I did, and I will never race without them again.
Please don't take this the wrong way, but if all you can muster is a 15 second timeslip, spinning on stock tires, then you can't be mad...you just have to expect that. However, I'd be interested to see what your rig will do with some good rubber underneath it because I like fast azz farm trucks.

 

You and many many other people have told me that. I understand. But, 99% of my racing is on the street. I am just not into the track racing that much to get slicks. Besides, I run in Bracket Street, so all I do is dial in 15 seconds.
Thats another reason I am not in a hurry to dyno it. What is the difference if I have 400 or 500 horsepower? All that matters is if I beat the guy that I am racing.

 

Ok...then how about a drag radial? They're DOT approved, and grip much better than a stock tire.

 

You could run semi-slick racing tires. I put them on my wifes RX-7... Much better traction.
I am not sure whether you could ge them in a tire size suitable for an F-Series, but you could try.

 

^^^ As I stated above...a drag radial.

Also, M/T, Hoosier and a few others make DOT approved slicks (28, 29 and 30 inch tall, for several size wheels) that will work quite well on a truck.
Installing traction bars isn't going to make your traction better on stock rubber. It will eliminate wheel hop and actually make wheel spin worse because your suspension will not load up to harness the added HP/TQ your rig is producing. So your 15.0 dial-in may need to be recalibrated.

 

I have 6,000 miles on the Toyos. The truck rides like you are in a Cadillac while taking curves like a Mustang. Also, how much are dot approved slicks? What kind of mileage will I get with them? How is the ride? The traction bars will stop the wheel hop. And the Eaton PosiTraction should handle the spinning. I will bet that adding those 2 mods will get me into the high 14s.