When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 289 V-8 in my 1954 Ford F100. The engine is rebuilt and originally came from a 1967 Mustang. I bought a chrome 1-wire Ford alternator from the local performance shop. It is rated at 70 amps. When I started the truck up, the voltage was about 12.3 That is with the electric fan and the electric fuel pump running. Then, when I turned the A/C on, the engine died. I tried it twice with the same results. Has anybody had any good luck with the 1-wire alternator? Thanks, Jag
It seems strange that the voltage is being pulled down to 12.3 with only an electric fan and fuel pump running. Are you sure the alternator is working OK, and hooked up to the electrical system correctly? It should put out enough current (amperage) that it will keep the voltage from dropping that low. I'll be running the same thing on my '51, but it's not hooked up yet. I converted my old John Deere tractor to a 1-wire, it is working great, always stays above 14volts, but then again there isn't much load on it.
With it running, try disconnecting the 1-wire, see if the voltage even changes.
Yes, you are right. I think the 12.3 I am reading is the battery only. I think the new alternator is not doing didly! I'm taking it back to the supplier today and ask for an exchange. The problem can't be me, as the only thing to do is to hook up the one wire from the battery to the one post on the back of the alternator. Maybe it's just a fluke that the one I got was defective. Jag
Sounds like something isn't hooked up right that you are reading 12.3 on the battery and turning on the AC (blower motor?) sucks enough juice to kill the engine. I too though only Delco made a "one wire"
Even though only one wire is necessary, make sure the unit is properly grounded. It should ground through the mounting bracket, but stranger things have happened.
That used to be true, AX, but the newer ones made "for the hobby" self-excite, called "bootstrapping". They use a more-magnetic material in the stator core, that produces enough juice to kick it off.
I do agree that grounding is very important; my flattie conversion (slingshot style mount, GM 1-wire) produces up to 105 amps. I am running a #10 ground wire from the ground connection on the case to a "master" grounding lug. I painted the slingshot, and don't trust it to ground properly.
I've been running a 1 wire (GM) for several years with no problems, although I don't get my truck out very often. Where are you measuring the voltage? If it's at the battery, that sounds reasonable. If you're at the alternator output, it sounds a little low. Does your AC system have a idle speed solenoid to boost idle speed with the compressor is on?
I also remember having to rev the motor up the first time the alternator was installed so that the excitation circuit would kick it. I think that was a "one time deal" and maybe you have to do something similar to yours.
Thanks for the responses. Yes the Ford 1 wires are now available. I went back to the supplier today and he said that they had inadvertantly given me the wrong unit. He traded me a new one with a small regulator attached on the back along with a couple of wires connected to various posts. The first unit only had one post on the back of the case and I could not see the regulator portion. Perhaps this one will work will work. I'll give it a try and report back. Jag
Along these same lines BEWARE of the Summit one wire conversion kit! I'd assumed that 1 wire GM were so common that this product referred to converting a Ford style alternator. It doesn't say anything specific in the catalgue but lo & behold, when I got it delivered it is for a Delco.
BTW, I'm getting Summit wary after 2 of their cams went flat on me & one torque convertor had a frozen stator which took me months to figure out why I had a vibration.
I installed the 1-wire alternator that the supplier traded me for the original. I put the battery wire on the thick post that had a red ring around it. Same results. It measures twelve volts whether idling or at higher rpm. When I turned the A/C on, the engine dies. It never did this with the original style alternator. I am sure that this 12 volts is only the battery current and the unit is producing nothing. The alternator looks good, but doesn't produce any juice. So, it's back to the supplier today. Jag
I assume you have tried measuring the output without the alternator connected to the battery? When two new units give the same results I'd start thinking the problem is elsewhere? Did the unit not come with any instructions on installation?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.