Desperate please help
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Desperate please help
I have a 91 Areostar that started going dead when idling but after you got over 35 mph, it ran fine. Then it got harder to keep it running long enough to get to 35 but seemed to do better when warm. But would shudder and try to die at stop signs. Then it would bog down, shudder, and backfire when taking off but do fine over 35. Now it will start but is hard to keep running long. The actions i have taken are as follows. Changed spark plugs and wires,distributor cap, oil,air and fuel filters,cleaned throttle body and egr valve. Please help. I am desperate as this is my family's only tranportation.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Southern California
I can only think of two things:
IAC or unreleased locked up Torque Converter.
To eliminate the Torque Converter, shift to Neutral at the stop light. If it still wants to die, then it's something else.
To check the IAC, warm up the car and unplug the IAC. If the engine runs really rough or dies when you do that, the IAC is probably OK.
Also, did you get any code? When was the last time you replaced your O2 sensor? If you have never done that, then I'm afraid Torsen Rick is right and your cat is probably plugged up. My stupid brother did that to his Explorer. He was trying to save $50 on the cost of a new O2 sensor, now he's paying hundreds for a new cat, not to mention all the money wasted because of the 13mpg mileage. Real smart
IAC or unreleased locked up Torque Converter.
To eliminate the Torque Converter, shift to Neutral at the stop light. If it still wants to die, then it's something else.
To check the IAC, warm up the car and unplug the IAC. If the engine runs really rough or dies when you do that, the IAC is probably OK.
Also, did you get any code? When was the last time you replaced your O2 sensor? If you have never done that, then I'm afraid Torsen Rick is right and your cat is probably plugged up. My stupid brother did that to his Explorer. He was trying to save $50 on the cost of a new O2 sensor, now he's paying hundreds for a new cat, not to mention all the money wasted because of the 13mpg mileage. Real smart
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Well then in a couple of thousand miles I'll be replacing mine then I don't want to plug my Aeros 2 cats 
double the trouble 
.
Well this is odd I just looked on Autozones site for the location I know its screwed into the exhaust pipe but was just checking but it says theres one before and after the cat?
Now I know why its expensive to replace theres two of them.
double the trouble .Well this is odd I just looked on Autozones site for the location I know its screwed into the exhaust pipe but was just checking but it says theres one before and after the cat?
Now I know why its expensive to replace theres two of them.
Last edited by krankshaft; Jun 8, 2005 at 01:34 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Oak Harbor, Washington
Cat plugged: not likely, as the symptom of a plugged cat are *worsened* as you rev it up. By the time the cat is plugged enough to make idling rough, it won't run fast enough to get out of its own way.
IAC: won't produce a shudder or backfire symptom no matter how it fails.
Normally I'd suggest the plugs & wires, but you've already covered that.
If it's a 4.0l, Ford MAFs fail with those symptoms. Harder to check though, and expensive to replace. I've seen at least one 4.0l in a '94 Explorer that ran like that with a failed MAF and it didn't code!
If you can borrow one, I'd probably run a fuel pressure check first. My '89's fuel pump failed with low pressure and wouldn't idle when it warmed up.
IAC: won't produce a shudder or backfire symptom no matter how it fails.
Normally I'd suggest the plugs & wires, but you've already covered that.
If it's a 4.0l, Ford MAFs fail with those symptoms. Harder to check though, and expensive to replace. I've seen at least one 4.0l in a '94 Explorer that ran like that with a failed MAF and it didn't code!
If you can borrow one, I'd probably run a fuel pressure check first. My '89's fuel pump failed with low pressure and wouldn't idle when it warmed up.
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thanks guys. i am in the process of having all these things checked out. you all have been VERY helpful seeing as how none of the mechanics i have talked to have had any idea what the problem is. one has suggested the head gasket blown. does this make sense?
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From: Corpus Christi, Tx. 78418
From your description it sounds more to me like the IAC might be dirty or bad. Is it hard to start? What plugs did you use when you replaced them? These Aerostars can be quite fussy on the brand of plugs used.
I doubt that you have a blown head gasket as you did not mention anything about loss of coolant or oil and no mention of exhaust smoke, both of which you would more than likely see with a blown gasket.
Just my 2cents
Ron
I doubt that you have a blown head gasket as you did not mention anything about loss of coolant or oil and no mention of exhaust smoke, both of which you would more than likely see with a blown gasket.
Just my 2cents
Ron
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From: Corpus Christi, Tx. 78418
Kermit's right, a vacuum leak could cause these same symptoms and replacing a little hose is much easier and cheaper than anything else. So check your vacuum lines from the vacuum tee out to the actuators.
Another thing to check would be the fuel pressure regulator. Sometimes the diaphram develops a leak and can allow fuel to be sucked into the engine through the vacuum line. A quick check would be to check your oil for a fuel smell or remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and check it to see if it has a fuel odor or fuel. My 3.0L's regulator went bad and I had to replace it, the oil and oil filter due to this fuel contamination.
Ron
Another thing to check would be the fuel pressure regulator. Sometimes the diaphram develops a leak and can allow fuel to be sucked into the engine through the vacuum line. A quick check would be to check your oil for a fuel smell or remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and check it to see if it has a fuel odor or fuel. My 3.0L's regulator went bad and I had to replace it, the oil and oil filter due to this fuel contamination.
Ron
Last edited by rlmdad; Jun 10, 2005 at 02:22 AM.
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Hey Guys. Wanted To Get Back To You All And Let You Know The Problem Was A Map Sensor And Water Pump Had Locked Up Also. You All Were Very Helpful. Thank You So Much. I Am Happy To Be Back On The Road Again. Thanks Again!
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Glad you're back in action. One question, was it the MAP or the MAF sensor that was bad? My pickled, pea brain seems to recall that the MAP sensor in '91 was not a true active input sensor but acted rather indirectly as a barometric sensor for altitude compensation. On the other hand, I can also see if the MAP were sending a false positive signal the ECM would produce an incorrect fuel/air mixture with driveability problems. Just curious.
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