AC repair help
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Cedar City, UT
AC repair help
Think I have determined that the low pressure switch in my AC system is bad. Have used a paper clip to bypass the switch and my compressor clutch engages ok, otherwise it does not. Had a tech tell me the freon level is fine. Question is the process to remove the switch? Take of brass nut that holds it to side of dryer? There is a screw inside where the plug goes onto the switch...take that out? I am concerned about doing the wrong thing and loosing freon...appreciate any guidance..
Thanks so much..
Tim
Thanks so much..
Tim
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
What brass nut? There is no brass nut holding the low pressure switch to the dryer. After you disconnect the wire, the whole assembly must be removed as one unit. Just turn it counter-clockwise. The nipple on the dryer is a valve similar to the ones on the tire so you won't lose any freon. Make sure you use a new O-ring on the new valve and wet the nipple and the O-ring a little with A/C oil before installation.
I'm still baffled by the brass nut. Are you sure this is an Aerostar and it hasn't been modified?
Also, REMEMBER TO WEAR EYE GOGGLE AND THICK GLOVES WHEN YOU WORK AROUND THE A/C.
I'm still baffled by the brass nut. Are you sure this is an Aerostar and it hasn't been modified?
Also, REMEMBER TO WEAR EYE GOGGLE AND THICK GLOVES WHEN YOU WORK AROUND THE A/C.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 78
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From: Cedar City, UT
Well, it's not a brass nut but it is brass colored and the only reason I said nut is because it is hex and takes a wrench. Sorry if I was not mechanically correct.
Appreciate your help...heading to the part store to pick one up....
Take Care.
Tim
Appreciate your help...heading to the part store to pick one up....
Take Care.
Tim
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
Hi Tim:
No I wasn't confused by the "Nut" part, just the "brass" part
Mine looks black (those who are laughing, clean up your mind! 
)
Anyway, don't forget the goggle and the gloves, just in case. As I get older, I'm forever more timid with these repairs
No I wasn't confused by the "Nut" part, just the "brass" part
Mine looks black (those who are laughing, clean up your mind! )Anyway, don't forget the goggle and the gloves, just in case. As I get older, I'm forever more timid with these repairs
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
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Originally Posted by copper_90680
As I get older, I'm forever more timid with these repairs
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,814
Likes: 246
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
Mine failed two summers ago. I was getting too much clutch cycling, thought I had a low charge, but system pressures were good when the switch was bypassed.
NAPA's online interface calls out GA 707435 (for R12) for my '89, list price is $24.83, looks like this:
There's a different switch for R134 systems (ie retrofit).
For a '97, they list a GA 707404, which costs and looks about the same:
Note that the place that this screws to is a prime location for leaks. Definitely replace the o-ring!
Regards,
Al S.
NAPA's online interface calls out GA 707435 (for R12) for my '89, list price is $24.83, looks like this:
There's a different switch for R134 systems (ie retrofit).
For a '97, they list a GA 707404, which costs and looks about the same:
Note that the place that this screws to is a prime location for leaks. Definitely replace the o-ring!
Regards,
Al S.
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