Well, it's been bloody but progress with my rebuild is being made.

I have my cam in, that was an ordeal. I took it out 6 times before I got the bearing sufficiently fitted to where I could turn the cam without alot of effort. It still won't freely spin, but after overcoming a little stick it turns without alot of effort.

I took the crank and pistons out once again to get the rear main seal in properly. The first time we torqued it all down without the seal in place, duh. The second time we didn't offset the split in the chase. I hated taking the crank out for that but figured I didn't want to do all this work and end up leaving drippings everywhere I went. Now it has a good half inch offset.

Reading Tom Monroe's book, he states to preoil the lifters. Literature from CompCam states not to do it. Also, from the posts I see many strongly recommend degreeing the cam, and CompCam literature mentions it, but I have no real instructions. I have done a search in the forum, got lots of returns.
Could someone give me a sober overview of what degreeing the cam does and why it's being recommended? Is it worth the fuss?
Do I have to buy a wheel or is this a rentable tool from Autozone?

Next post: setting lifter preload and am I suffering from oldtimers disease?

 

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=3
http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/degree.html
or just do a search for "cam degreeing" or "degreeing a cam", there are a lot of sites. tell you the truth, i wouldn't worry about it. set the timing "straight up" and it'll be fine.

 

Check with the cam manufacturer. There have been some cams ground 4° advanced for use with a stock timing set. Make sure you know what you have.

The cam should turn easily in the bore before the lifters etc are installed. It sounds like your cam bore may not be straight. If this is the case the cam bearings will wear rapidly and the cam may break. Check all of your cam bearing sizes on the cam. Inspect the bearings in the block for raised burs etc.

 

I would scrape & polish the high spots off the cam bearings till it turns free, with no resistance.

 

from what i gather.degreeing the cam is to make sure you have the right cam.it's kind of taking the manufacturer off the hook if it's not the right cam.in other words a cam may have been put in the wrong box???i got a comp cam that was scribed with a serial number on the end so i figured that was good enough.
set it straight up timing wise and it was good to go...
as far as the lifters go. i didn't soak lifters overnight and was thankfull i didn't..it is easier in my opinion to check the lifter preload..you would have to bleed the lifters down anyway to check the preload.(i think)
i used a comp 268h with new springs,lifters,scorpion roller rockers 1.73 ratio...pete jackson gear drive.and new stock length (9.5) pushrods,weiand 8010 intake and a holley 80457s (600cfm) with great results...bottom line no need to degree if you have the correct cam...
one thing you must do is prime the oil pump before starting.you can rent the tool at auto zone for $20 (electric drill running in reverse)...i left the valve covers off while doing this..that way you can see the oil coming out of the rockers and know you have oil running through out the motor...one thing i learned when getting close to start up...take a break and regain your composure..it is easy to get over excited and forget an important step into bringing your motor back to life for the first time...good luck

 

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=3
first paragraph.

 

Thanks for the link. Got something to read tonight. The machine shop believes as some others do that the cam will be ok and I don't need to do any more scraping/polishing (I did a combination of both).

They state that if I can put the gear on it and turn it that it will be okay even if it's somewhat tight.

I read the CompCam literature, mines a 255deh, and it states not to fill the lifters as instructed in Tom Monroe's book. This for the reason you mention TXbrokenarrow?

Anyway, I've got the cam and crank gears lined up with the dot facing each other as described in the book and I think in the forum. This is the desired straight up, right? I have to reread the literature, but it seems it mentioned 4 degrees advance though I'm not certain of that. Is this where I want it to be?

 

some timing sets have three keyways in the crank sprocket, one with a dot, one with a triangle and one with a square. the dot is "0" or "straight up" the other two are usually +4 and -4 degrees, sometimes +2 and -2 according to the instructions that come with the set. if you have only the one keyway it's "0" and no confusion. there's a Ford Motorsport set that has nine keyways if confusion is what you're after.

 

Mine has one keyway, and I've matched up the dots so that they face one another, #1 cylinder TDC. The technique in Tom Monroe's book threw me off some, but I managed to get the sprockets and chain on without too much trouble.

I thought I had gotten/intended to get a dual roller sprocket and chain after reading about them, but what I have it is a single-toothed metal sprocket set that came with the CompCam k kit. It appears to be much more substantial than the original nylon.

to install the small gear, I used a pvc coupling, with the washer catching the lip inside the fitting to pull it in . Once half way in I used a second coupling and just lightly tapped it from there.

I've torqued and lock-tited the cam retaining ring and bolts, and the fuel pump drive. I've sanded and painted the front cover, though I might do it again, and am trying to figure out how to get the new cover seal in without buying a large socket. I don't have a pipe lying around, but I guess I'll find something. The pvc coupling is too small, riding the gasket part.

 

a 2x4 will work. no need to buy a socket

 

A D44 spindle nut socket is the perfect diameter, if you have a 4wd. Just did mine and this worked great.

 

Don't have a leftover 4x4 but do have a 2x4 around. Thanks, I'll install it tomorrow then.