I have had 1/2 dozen people try and find the problem and still no go. I bought a late model 99 crewcab stroker w/ 150k. Paid 12800 figured got a good deal. First thing major that went out was A/C, expensive but gotta have it.

Another problem has started that no one has been able to figure out. Whenever I take off, there is a vibration that feels like something is loose. First person I took it to said it was a sticky brake. So we put new hoses and calipers in it. Didnt fix it. Next person said it was tranny mount. Put that in and didnt fix it. Next suggestion was socks. Guess what, still didnt fix it.

It doesnt bother me that all these things were replaced. At 150k, it needs it anyway. I would just like to know what the hell it is. All the u-joints and the center bearing look good, but I think we are going to replace them too. Does it both in forward and reverse. Any help! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I hope it is not the tranny or rear-end.

 

I read somwhere on this site that some people complain about a vibration under acceleration. I think it is caused by the pinion angle being changed under the power of the motor. Would make sense that it goes away as the rig gets up to speed, anyways I "think" the fix is to shim the carrier bearing. That is if your truck has one. Is it lifted? Have you checked/re-tightened the U bolts?

BTW, if you fill out you sig line we might be able to help you a little sooner.

Edit. Sorry I just noticed you have a crew cab, that is what I was wondering. I think that does have a carrier bearing.

 

Yes, carrier bearing looks to be good. All u joints and the carrier are original. I am going to have them replaced in the next day or so and replace the tranny filter. Everything is stock. The only thing I have done is the Kwik Mod.

 

The bearing could be in good shape but not shimmed properly, rear this...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...r+acceleration

 

I let you guys know as soon as the new u joints and carrier bearing are in. Ill definitely look into shimming it. It did not do this when I first bought it. It stated and slowly got worse. Thanks all, please keep the suggestions coming.

 

I'll vote on a driveling issue here as well. If it's slowly tapering up like that, sounds like a binding u-joint. No "haunted house" squeaky sounds coming from under the truck at pedestrian speeds yet?

 

No, it doesnt make any sounds like a classic U-joint that has gone out. Ujoint/balljoints/shocks/brakes were all on my to do list for this truck. Looks like they are all gonna get done a lot sooner than expected. I was talking with my old man about it and she said it is probably something in the driveline as well. Gonna change them joints and grease em really well. Thanks Everyone.

 

At what speed do you start to feel it and does it ever go away?

 

If you can hardly feel the vibration under slight acceleration from a stop, but a lot of vibration under heavy acceleration from a stop, but tapers off as the speed comes up, I would bet it was the center carrier bering. I replaced mine and it removed most of the vibration, not all. The rubber ring holding the bearing was starting to get worn down from all the heavy starts I've been doing since I got my programmer.

Also I have at least 1 inch of shims also to make the drive shafts as straight as possible.

 

Notes

TSB 04-22-7

11/15/04

DRIVE-AWAY SHUDDER OR VIBRATION

FORD:
1999-2005 F-Super Duty

ISSUE

Some 1999-2005 Super Duty F-Series may exhibit excessive drive-away shudder or vibration, under moderate to heavy acceleration from a stop. This may be due to driveline angle.

ACTION

Shim the center carrier bracket downward to correct the condition. Refer to the following Service Procedure.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

When shimming the center carrier bracket, a maximum of three (3) 1/4 inch shims may be used (EOTZ-4A209-A). When refastening the carrier bracket use bolt (56564-S2). A 7/16 x 14 grade 5 bolt may be substituted providing that it extends at least 3 threads past the nut. Use Motorcraft Threadlock 262 (TA-26), and torque bolts to 46 lb-ft (62 N.m).

NOTE IF THE VEHICLE IS NORMALLY LOADED, ROAD TESTS WILL NEED TO BE PERFORMED WITH THE VEHICLE LOADED.

1. Before beginning the repair, road test the vehicle to gain a feel for the harshness of the shudder/vibration.

2. Install one (1) shim, (DO NOT use Threadlock on the bolts at this point), re-road test vehicle.

a. If condition is corrected, apply Threadlock and torque bolts as directed above. Return the vehicle to the customer.

b. If condition is not corrected, re-perform Step 2 (to a maximum of three (3) shims) and reevaluate vehicle.


NOTE IF THE CONDITION IS STILL NOT CORRECTED AFTER INSTALLING A MAXIMUM OF THREE (3) SHIMS, REFER TO WORKSHOP MANUAL SECTION 205-00 FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS

 

I feel it taking off from a dead stop. I drive pretty slow. It just feels like something loose. If I punch it hard, you cant feel it. One of the other people I spoke with thinks it could possibly be a motor mount, but I really dont think so. It just feels like something falls and then goes away after I get pasy about 10mph. One thing I did notice is that every now and then the truck will sort of hop a little.

 

Sounds like a u-joint.

 

I'm voting on the U-joint as well, they can be tricky to check when still on the vehicle. I've jacked the vehicle off the ground, put the tranny in neutral, parking brake off and checked each U-joint at each 90 degree position. As far as shimming the carrier bearing, the thing I was first taught on drivelines is that the tranny's output shaft and the rearends pinion shaft should be parallel with each other to help the U-joints last longer. With the amount of torque these engines put out, it will change the pinion angle on accelleration and will probably make any faults more noticeable. Now with the carrier bearings, I'd guess it would be best to have it parallel with the other input/output shafts or directly in line with the driveline shaft (the latter being the most preferred option). Due to ride height always changing according to the load, I'm sure the factory tried to mount the carrier some in the middle of the expected ride height. I'm not even sure if this advice is even worth 2 cents??

 

I did notice it got a little worse after replacing the tranny mount. This angles it more towards those darn ujoints. Hopefully I can work everything out so that I can work on it tomorrow. I hate driving my truck knowing that something needs to be replaced pretty bad. Its just drives me crazy. thanks roaky81

 

hey empitetc

kwik and others have given you advice that may fix your shudder for nearly free. try shimming the carrier bearing first before you replace perfectly good u-joints. i have not experienced this problem but have read alot of posts about it and what you describe has been fix nearly every time by shimming the carrier bearing. save yourself some money and trying it.

use the post about the tsb to shim it. shim it a 1/4 inch at a time.

just trying to save you some money
tim