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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

oil pan leak

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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 12:47 AM
  #1  
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oil pan leak

Saga of sagas, but when I was replacing the brake lines on my '65 f100 when I noticed the oil pan gasket is leaking quite a bit. Vitals: 352 COM 2wd. Is there room to drop that oil pan while the engine is still in the mounts or will I have to rent myself a cherry picker?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 05:41 AM
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Neal, I suggest cleaning it really good, (carb or brake cleaner work well) You may have a leaking rear intake gasket, that is running down the engine to appear to be the oil pan.

worth a look

John
 
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 09:50 AM
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hmm. I'll have to check that out. Truck hasn't moved for a while (I've been working on the brakes) but when I got it, I hosed the engine down with two or three cans of degreaser. Soon as the truck moves under her own power, I'll drive it down to the carwash and powerwash everything.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 12:18 PM
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Like John says, wash the back side of the heads, the backside of the intake and the top of the bellhousing VERY well.
FE engines are notorious for leaking there. If you can get all the dirt off there, and get all the oil cleaned off, it wil MUCH easier to find that leak.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 01:04 PM
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Well, there shouldn't be much after most of it has fallen in my eyes while working under there. LOL.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 04:05 PM
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I agree with the others on the rear of the intake. But as to your questian about pulling the pan, no there is not enough room to pull the pan with the engine in the truck. With a cherry picker my sons and I pulled the engine and trans in a 66 2wd with auto trans, replaced the manifolds and trans cooler line and put it back in, and had it running in nine hours. Got a lot done to it while it was out.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 02:40 AM
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That's what I was afraid of. Hopefully it's the intake manifold, then.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 07:52 AM
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I must respectfully disagree with Bertha66. it is possible to remove the pan with the engine in the truck. I did this in my 352 in my '66.
You must jack up the engine, place a short 2x4 between the engine mounts and the perches, and work upside down in tight places, but it is possible.
I could pull the pan, replace the oil pump and rod bearings and re-set the pan within 4 hours.
There are some things to be aware of:
1. Disconnect the accelerator linkage, the transmission linkage.
2. Watch the fuel line and radiator hoses as you jack up the engine. Don't over stretch them.
3. Drop the pan onto the crossmember and then remove the oil pickup tube and then the pump. (Installation is the reverse. This is where it gets literally sticky - especially if you are using RTV on the pan and/or pan gasket.)
4. Ensure the oil pump is fully seated before tightening the bolts. DON'T use the bolts to draw the pump up; you may not engage the pump driveshaft into the bottom of the distributor. If this happens, you will run the engine without oil being pumped.

Good luck.
 

Last edited by banjopicker66; Jun 7, 2005 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 08:29 AM
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Whether it is the oil pan or intake you'll still need a cherry picker as that manifold weighs a million pounds!
 
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 10:50 AM
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Now isn't that the truth! That intake is solid cast iron, and is a BIIIIIG one.
It weighs just under 90 pounds stripped.
The cherry picker for just the intake is an excellent idea. Even if someone can muscle it into place, the gaskets have a onery habit of slipping around.
So, get a cherry picker or something to get it in place right the first time - without hurting your back or other anatomical fixtures.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 11:16 AM
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LOL. Will do. I was just planning on recruiting a few buddies, pay 'em with Miller High Life, and muscle it into place. This might be a better idea though.
 
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