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Jun 12, 2005 | 02:36 PM

#16

87carbed

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ya, so uh, i was pumping...and i found that my tire rod dust bood was ruptured, and nobody has one...also, how hard is it to replace one? can anybody help me out on that?

Jun 12, 2005 | 03:15 PM

#17

Torque1st

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Just grease it more often.

Jun 12, 2005 | 03:47 PM

#18

Putt

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From: Colville, Washington

There must be a Schucks, Autozone, Kragen type store near you or someone that carries the Motormite line which has replacement tie rod boots. You do have to remove the tie rod end to replace the boot.

Jun 13, 2005 | 12:51 AM

#19

87carbed

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is that hard to remove the tie rod end? never done it...

Jun 13, 2005 | 08:50 AM

#20

Putt

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From: Colville, Washington

It depends...if it is rusted on or has not been removed since built it can be tough. Apply rust penetrant to the thread area and give it a couple applications. A pickle fork is the easiest( tapered wedge with a slot to go around the stud), or you can whack the hole piece the stud fits in on each side at the same time and that will often pop them out.

Jun 13, 2005 | 10:45 AM

#21

Torque1st

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It is usually much easier to just make sure it gets lubed unless the boot is really torn away with chunks missing.

Jun 15, 2005 | 10:23 PM

#22

Ecuri

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Joined: Jun 2003

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From: Houston/Hope BC

Here is a very good guide for new grease gun owners (and some old ones too!)
http://www.maintenanceresources.com/...ube_tips4.html
It is geared toward plant maintenance but it applies well to automotive.

I keep 3 guns going: one with synthetic, one with the blue water resist for the boat hubs, and one with plain ol vannilla.

Those old wore out long tube socks make nice covers for the gun in the truck that services tractors or boat stuff.

sidebar: It is my understanding Ford has done away with grease fitting on the U-joints some years back due to excessive failure from being over-pumped and having the seals blown out. Can anyone confirm/deny this?

Last edited by Ecuri; Jun 15, 2005 at 10:28 PM.

Jun 15, 2005 | 11:41 PM

#23

Torque1st

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ecuri

...sidebar: It is my understanding Ford has done away with grease fitting on the U-joints some years back due to excessive failure from being over-pumped and having the seals blown out. Can anyone confirm/deny this?

I don't know for sure but the sealed units seem to last far longer. I doubt it was the seals blowing out since they resealed instantly. I would venture to say it was dirt from dirty zerks that was forced in with the grease that destroyed most U-joints. In reality we just wiped the zerk off but there is a ring of dirt around the check ball that was forced into the bearing whenever it was lubed. If the seals did crack most of the dirt was probably flushed thru but it only takes one small particle to destroy the bearings.

Bronze bushings like used in kingpins have a lot of imbedability but needle bearings like the ones in U-joints do not have any tolerance for dirt or abrasive particles.

Last edited by Torque1st; Jun 15, 2005 at 11:47 PM.

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Jun 22, 2005 | 12:46 AM

#24

Jimmmmmy

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Joined: Feb 2005

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No Zerks

I bought a brand new Ford Country Sedan in 1964. At that time they were trying to make you think you had bought a maintenance-free vehicle. First time I rolled under with my ZERK gun. I got a surprise. Ford had put zerks in all suspension locations and then cut the tips off of them so they couldn't be used. In a couple locations they had used plugs. Almost as bad as the day I got a cold soldering gun.

Jun 22, 2005 | 03:42 AM

#25

RR4E

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Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 984

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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba

One thing about grease. I tend to use the theory of pump until you can't hear it bubble anymore, and have only had to deal with time being the issue of replacement. Grease-able fittings do wear out, but they wear out a lot quicker without enough grease. If you're worried about the ring of dirt around the check ball, keep pumping. I do this with u-joints, tie-rod ends, etc. Pump until no more bubbling can be heard.(Those are air pockets popping. I want everything full of grease, not just partially greased)

I will wipe away the excess with a rag, afterwards, and run the same rage around the nylon or rubber seals with a good firm push, to get them to re-seal. This keeps things clean, and also keeps them well greased.

Another trick you can use to eliminate the dust ring around the check ball... spray it down with WD-40 after wiping it off, and wipe it again.