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I have a 67 Mercury 1/2 ton. The other day I went out and the battery was stone dead. I charged it up and drove it around for the day, stopping and starting it several times and everything was fine. Next morning, stone dead again, so I boosted it and the drove it around and the altenator charged it up. I turned it off and started it several times throughout the day. That night I took the battery cables off, next morning I put them back on and it fired right up. So I've been doing that now, when I park it for extended periods I pull the battery cables off. Works for now, but where do I start looking for the cause of my battery draining?
I would check the battery cables first. Chances are you got a loose cable, possibly not grounded and it is draining the battery. I have been through that. If that isn't it, then you got a job on your hands. Check all loose wiring first. That is probably the cause.
Sounds like a dead short ,or the old Ford truck problem the hanging brake
pedal and the brake lights stay on all night! You also may do a search on
dead shorts, I did a search on it a long time ago it sure turned up some very
good info on tracing the shorts down!
here is the quickest way to find a short.
Disconnect your positive connection at the battery. Take a 12 volt test light and a small aligator clip. Connect the test light clip to the battery post then by using the other alligator clip, connect the test light to the cable terminal. If the test light lights up you have a short.
You want the light to go out while it is connected from the battery to the battery terminal.
As Carl mentioned, first try the alt. Disconnect the alt. connection.
Then start at your fuse box by pulling each fuse out until the light goes out.
Once you find which fuse it is, then you have narrowed it to the circuit.
I have to go shower for dinner. But I will come back and try to explain how to narrow it down by finding the actual short.
With your drivers door open, courtesy light switch in the off position, all fuses removed, use a digital meter set on amperage and read across each fuse. This way you'll eliminate all branch circuits. I still believe your alternators the problem. If it's a mechanical regulator and the contacts stick closed you can remove the ignition key and the motor will keep running until you bang on the regulator. Electronic regulator I haven't had any experience trouble shooting yet.
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you might want to take a walk behind your truck when you get out of it next time and make sure your brake light isnt staying on. had it happen before. i usually didnt go to the rear of the truck when i got out. if thats whats happening you need to check the switch on the pedal or make sure the return spring for the brake pedal is not broken.
4cammer72, I cut down a red taillight lens (Dodge) to fit inside my clear cargo light lens. Wired the cargo light to the brakes, now have a third brake light plus when the brake lights are on the cargo light switch lights up. This is a safety to me as I can see I have power to the brake lights. Push the cargo switch to off and i'll have normal two brake lights. The cargo switch didn't light one morning, found one lead to the brake switch broken with only the insulation holding on. How would I know without getting a ticket or some idiot ramming me because they didn't see brake lights. Self check safety light (cargo switch lamp) plus it makes a difference at night with that third brake light. Thinking about that new chrome paint, 95% reflective properties. Add this inside the taillights and front turn signal housings.
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The voltage regulators are notorious for draining the battery of the old fords. I have had a few go bad and drain the battery over night. I never had a truck keep running after the switch was shut off because the hot side of the coil is wired through the ignition switch. It shuts the coil off when you shut off the ignition.
If the regulator contacts stick closed you will backfeed and keep running, this happened to me 5 months ago. Big surprise like what the h*ll the keys out, I was half out the door damn thing still running. Thumped the regulator motor stopped. "Electrical Phenomenon".
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beemer, like the third tail light idea but my sport custom didnt have a cargo light so ive been playing with the idea of using the aluminum ford tailgate panel to make one. i was thinking of cutting the lettering out and putting the dark red plexy in with the lights behind it so when you hit the pedal the "ford" lights up. sound tacky or cool? what do you guys think.
Price out a spare before cutting, that may be against the law? I would add a light to the trailer hitch receiver like 4" x 6" full of LED's. On the other truck a 69 Flairside (sold it) the taillight housings were black inside, I went high dollar and lined them with tin foil. Made 'em alot brighter. Didn't we have a thread on LED taillights not to long ago?
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If the regulator contacts stick closed you will backfeed and keep running, this happened to me 5 months ago. Big surprise like what the h*ll the keys out, I was half out the door damn thing still running. Thumped the regulator motor stopped. "Electrical Phenomenon".
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Are you sure it wasn't the cylinoid next to the battery? The regulator is between the cylinoid and the altinator. I have had the cylinoid stick and let the truck keep running after the key was shut off but never had a regulator do it. Maybe I have just never had my regulator malfunction that bad. Correct me if I am wrong, isn't the regulators job to cut power to the battery once it is fully charged and then only open when the vehicle accessories have drained the battery to the preset voltage for the regulator?