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Motoroil- the classroom is open

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  #1  
Old 06-03-2005, 07:21 PM
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Motoroil- the classroom is open

This is some good reading. It loads pretty fast for the modem folks. It will take awhile to go thru all of the info. This gentleman is not a certified petro-chemist but he does make some dandy observations. You may want to print it out to study.
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/

Happy reading and your comments please.
 
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Old 06-03-2005, 10:36 PM
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I've got some comments.

He says that you wont be able to start your engine with mineral oil below zero. I did this last winter multiple times with my '92 explorer. Worked just fine. -20F, with 10w30 Mystik.

It seems, that according to this guy, as long as I have 10psi per 1000rpm, I should be using a 0w20 in my new FE 390. I just have a hard time wrapping my mind around this.

I'm sure I'll have more as I read through it.

Edit: Found another one! "Cooler engines last longer. Fact: The higher the temperature, the greater the wear, all other things being equal." Not as far as rings and cylinder walls are concerned. Up around 200F is about right for them, AFAIK.

Re-edit: He says that synthetics are better than mineral based oils. Why then, do mineral oils seem to consistantly give better UOA results (wear metals) than synthetics?

Good job on livening up the oil forum a bit Flash.
 

Last edited by rusty70f100; 06-03-2005 at 11:16 PM.
  #3  
Old 06-04-2005, 01:51 AM
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well about 200 to 215 is where you want to be and dino oils will start fine in cold provided you use the right weight and synthetics will always produce higher wear numbers they are only good for cold and extended oci's your engine will last longer on a nice diet of cheap dino than wasting your money on 6.00 a quart stuff.
 
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Old 06-06-2005, 11:57 AM
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I watched his treads on BITOG awhile back.

Needless to say there was some heated dicussions on the topic.
 
  #5  
Old 06-08-2005, 01:23 PM
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yes there was some very heated discussion on BITOG
 
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