99 Ranger A/C Problem
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From: Pascoag, RI
99 Ranger A/C Problem
The 10A fuse has blown twice.
Measured 3.6 ohm across the clutch coil.
Current meter in place of fuse only measures 4A and at idle, the A/C appears to work with the meter inline - cycles on and off about 5s/10s and I get cold air.
I'm thinking that the coil may have a short or intermitant short on the windings which blows the fuse.
Does that sound reasonable or should I think about replacing the whole compressor?
THANKS.
Measured 3.6 ohm across the clutch coil.
Current meter in place of fuse only measures 4A and at idle, the A/C appears to work with the meter inline - cycles on and off about 5s/10s and I get cold air.
I'm thinking that the coil may have a short or intermitant short on the windings which blows the fuse.
Does that sound reasonable or should I think about replacing the whole compressor?
THANKS.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 67
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From: A Double-wide
Originally Posted by chuckbrodeur
The 10A fuse has blown twice.
Measured 3.6 ohm across the clutch coil.
Current meter in place of fuse only measures 4A and at idle, the A/C appears to work with the meter inline - cycles on and off about 5s/10s and I get cold air.
I'm thinking that the coil may have a short or intermitant short on the windings which blows the fuse.
Does that sound reasonable or should I think about replacing the whole compressor?
THANKS.
Measured 3.6 ohm across the clutch coil.
Current meter in place of fuse only measures 4A and at idle, the A/C appears to work with the meter inline - cycles on and off about 5s/10s and I get cold air.
I'm thinking that the coil may have a short or intermitant short on the windings which blows the fuse.
Does that sound reasonable or should I think about replacing the whole compressor?
THANKS.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
The circuit at issue is powered vis a vis the 10A fuse, runs through the A/C relay in the same box (under the hood), and then feeds the A/C clutch coil & diode. Ground is supplied from a main ground point located at the top center of the LH fender apron (also under the hood), and so you might consider checking the ground side of the circuit, as well as the power side.
What GWIGG suggests is worth thinking about. Similarly, maybe the clutch isn't engaging properly or is slipping, also possibly causing an overheat/overload situation.
What GWIGG suggests is worth thinking about. Similarly, maybe the clutch isn't engaging properly or is slipping, also possibly causing an overheat/overload situation.
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From: Pascoag, RI
I replaced the clutch coil but have not solved the problem. The kickback diode seems to be OK and I've swapped out the relay. I can't find any shorts. In fact the fuse won't seem to blow at idle but doesn't last long on the road...
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Humm, not much on that circuit except the diode,clutch and relay. try unhooking the connector on the clutch and try driving it a while disconnected and see if the fuse blows. that would eliminate any shorts from the connector to the fuse.
Dave
Dave
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From: Pascoag, RI
The cycling time is not typically that short (now that I've spent much more time working on this) though may be a problem. Even so, I dont think that that would contribute to a load issue on the coil.
I'll try the driving w/o the coil connected and I'm going to pick up a diode to rule that out.
I'll try the driving w/o the coil connected and I'm going to pick up a diode to rule that out.
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