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gtex, trans shops have a foot operated press with all the different drivers. I would have the bushing checked as well, to change it the pump must be removed to fit in the press. The square ring around the pump to case is a known leak area. This requires a special puller plus you can have the internal end clearance checked. How was the trans rebuilt, general or a performance only shop that has many years of reputation? What's your intermediate band made of? Stainless flexable band or the rare steel forge band that can be relined? I'll shut up now.
.....=o&o>.....
If I'm remembering right, that main shaft comes right out. The large main, splined shaft. It's splined on both ends, just grab it and pull, replace seal and pop the shaft back in. Tell me if thats not right.
I think you could probably make a seal driver out of a short piece of 2" sch 40 PVC pipe and a block of wood - I'm thinking Home Depot here. I like the brass pipe idea but that stuff is hard to come by in large sizes at the local hardware store. My ATSG manual shows a special Ford tool that probably hasn't been made in 20 years but it's basically a deep seal driver. The guy is hitting it with a ball peen hammer so it doesn't take a lot of finesse.
Okay, I'll ask. How did you break the dip stick tube? It only sticks in there about 1". Summit sells tranny dip stick tubes. They're showing a C-6 "Big Block" application for $49.95. It's gold irridited and the dip stick locks in place. Sounds fancy. I wonder if the mounting tab is in the right place....
If I'm remembering right, that main shaft comes right out. The large main, splined shaft. It's splined on both ends, just grab it and pull, replace seal and pop the shaft back in. Tell me if thats not right.
Everything I've ever read, including the TCI installation instructions, cautions not to remove the output shaft. You might be able to get away with it but that shaft basically keeps everything aligned inside the case and all the drums, pump gears, etc ride those splines. I suspect there's a strong possibility that you could have trouble reinserting it, especially after hammering in the seal. Greg's not exactly riding a lucky streak these days.
I think the disptick broke when the trann "fell out" of the truck. It wasn't the most graceful removal process. the larger cross-member was still in the way and made it difficult to get other jacks etc in there. I'm a little concerned that the tube was busted before, and it was causing the leak, but I'm quite sure the fluid was coming from inside the bell-housing.
it broke right where it "bubbles up" to help make the seal...
Greg, I run a Lokar engine dip stick on the motor and its double O-ringed..and fits great... I have to buy a Lokar tranny stick for the rollerized C6,and I think there also double O-ringed and seat in the tibe nice and tight!! as does the one for the motor..
So I think I'll buy 2 one for the C6 in the Truck and the other for the C6 in the Stang..
I think the disptick broke when the trann "fell out" of the truck. It wasn't the most graceful removal process. the larger cross-member was still in the way and made it difficult to get other jacks etc in there. I'm a little concerned that the tube was busted before, and it was causing the leak, but I'm quite sure the fluid was coming from inside the bell-housing.
it broke right where it "bubbles up" to help make the seal...
Don't feel bad about dropping the tranny, this happened to me yesterday: my new motor and tranny was hanging from the air hoist. I was trying to roll the frame under the motor for install. I was pushing from the rear of the frame and the front tire ran over the control lever and down she came. Before I could get there the harmonic balancer was on the concrete and the tranny snaged the frame and was about 3 feet in the air.
I think the disptick broke when the trann "fell out" of the truck. It wasn't the most graceful removal process. the larger cross-member was still in the way and made it difficult to get other jacks etc in there. I'm a little concerned that the tube was busted before, and it was causing the leak, but I'm quite sure the fluid was coming from inside the bell-housing.
it broke right where it "bubbles up" to help make the seal...
That does suck. On the upside, there appears to be aftermarket options that are probably better looking and and better quality. Hello Summit?
Nothing like quickly rolling out from under the truck when the 435NP comes down abruptly I think I still have the scar up above my hairline...
Is a C6 near the weight of a 435NP? (probably)...
I had the NP435 in my project truck get away from me one day. Fortunately I was over grass. I typically remove the seat and the inspection cover, then stand in the cab straddling the tranny tunnel. On this occasion, by myself, I got off balance and she started for mother earth. Rather than hold on and be dragged through the tunnel head first I had to let her go.
When i put my seal in, i found a scap piece of tube, machined it to fit the seal perfectly, held it and the 2x4 in one hand, and slapped her home with the hammer in the other. Pain in the ***, but worked for me. No leaks, I learned not to even bother trying to tap seals in with a hammer or punch etc. You just gotta cover the whole seal or even better, get a seal install kit
Well I nstalled another seal using a piece of PVC pipe. And it went in, but it even it appears a little "tweaked", being that the outer portion of the metal seal is caving in towards the transmission and it's not uniform in it's bending. I'll probably just load it on my small trailer behind the new hitch on the Jeep and take it to a local transmision shop and have them install the seal.
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