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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 05:46 PM
  #16  
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From: "Islander"
Greg and others, the band clamps i'm running came from Pypes Performance Exhaust, type in Pypesexhaust. Grey you'll like their X Change exhaust for electric cutouts plus valves. 2 1/2" stepped clamp HVC10 $10.75, unstepped HVC20 $8.82. Check out their tips. Jeg's has clamps in unstepped and stepped. Dynomax as well JC Whitney ( don't trust their shipping and quality). Hope this helps. Greg sorry one Mercedes is enough i'll pass.
.....=o&o>.....
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 12:24 AM
  #17  
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The biooootch is out!

I won't bore you with the details, but it got so involved that the rear wheels are off the truck........

Anyway, the $7 seal puller worked like a charm. I'll probably have the new seal back in with a few minutes. I feel like I should be doing more. Maybe I'll look at that B&M hookup while the transmission is out. What a bunch of work for a $6 part...and 10 minutes of work on the seal.

I got one of the Harbor Freight tranny jacks, but I wasn't using it to get the tranny out. After jacking with the exhaust and cross-members the darn thing almost fell out. I hope to use the tranny jack adapter going back in, but it's obviously not going under the truck without lifting the truck, and if I do that I'll have to bring the truck back down to rasie the tranny high enough. What a circus....

maybe she'll be running again soon........but I'll likely get detoured with Jeep. The exhaust is due in tomorrow and the rear bumper friday :-)
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 01:06 AM
  #18  
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hey guys, the seal doesn't look bad, aside from the damage done to remove it. Is there something else I should look at on a fluid leaking C6?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 08:55 AM
  #19  
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I suspected that the seal would look okay but it still was likely the culprit. If you read TCI's description of the SNS converter they use stock cores and freshen them up. I figure they probably turn that collar a little to deburr so maybe it ends up a few thousandths less than stock. With the old seal worn in to fit your stock TC, and maybe not as pliable as it used to be, I imagine the potential for leaking is near 100%. Other than totally rebuilding the tranny to be sure that every seal is replaced there's not much else to do. I say button it up and run.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 10:20 AM
  #20  
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You left in the old seal and put in a new converter, I agree with fasttexan

On the old TC, was there a wear mark on the snout?

Are you supposed to soak the TC seal in tranny fluid first?

The only other way I can think of a leak in the bellhousing is TC is cracked (or bad weld), or the pump cover is leaking (or cracked).
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 11:59 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by krewat
You left in the old seal and put in a new converter, I agree with fasttexan

On the old TC, was there a wear mark on the snout?

Are you supposed to soak the TC seal in tranny fluid first?

The only other way I can think of a leak in the bellhousing is TC is cracked (or bad weld), or the pump cover is leaking (or cracked).

I dunno, should I soak the seal in tranny fluid? I have not installed it yet.

I'll look over the TC and pump cover, although I don't suspect either. You guys are probably corect about the different TCs and the seal.Should I slightly sand/smooth the TC sleeve/shaft?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 12:06 PM
  #22  
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Greg, when I installed my TCI a few weeks ago, the instruction sheet that came with it said to take a file and deburr the inside of the TC shaft. Like a triangle file, running it between the splines, just in case there are any burrs there, you can knock them off so that they won't cut the seal.

As for the seal, I would at least rub a film of fluid around the rubber part, kind of like greasing the seal on an oil filter before installing.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 01:41 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by gtex
I dunno, should I soak the seal in tranny fluid? I have not installed it yet.

I'll look over the TC and pump cover, although I don't suspect either. You guys are probably corect about the different TCs and the seal.Should I slightly sand/smooth the TC sleeve/shaft?

That seal is basically like a timing cover seal. It probably wouldn't hurt to lube it up so it installs easier but I don't think soaking it is necessary (nothing in any manuals I've read).

The pump cover is a hefty piece of iron; I think you could drop it off the roof without hurting it. It has an o-ring seal that could be leaking but I can't see why that would have developed all of a sudden. You won't find it on an inspection anyhow. I doubt the TC is cracked either unless you threw it off the roof with the pump cover.

I would hesitate to start sanding on the TC sleeve. I think the risk of putting in a flat spot would outweigh any potential benefits. I realize you don't intend to sand it a lot but you know what I mean. As I recall it comes from TCI in fairly good shape. I think you're set once the new seal is installed.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 01:54 PM
  #24  
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I've never soaked a TC seal before either, but have heard of it - maybe it was a pinion seal I'm thinking about?

Hey, the way Greg keeps blowing things up, you can't imagine him ballooning the TC, and taking the pump cover with it?

Greg, you have a rev-limiter in that think, don't you?

For the humor impaired: Just kidding!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 03:02 PM
  #25  
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yah, the MSD 6al has the 6000rpm rev limiter installed. And, I hit it twice on the 14.19 second pass! the good news, it still ran 14.19 with a passenger and hitting the rev limiter twice on street tires, more good news: it didn't seem to be making any less power after 5500rpm as I expected (it pulled hard all the way to the rev limiter, maybe oo hard :-) ...that was with the 750 Demon. The 850 Demon should feed it even better...

i'm sure I'll blow up something soon....
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 03:07 PM
  #26  
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I've never heard of soaking a TC seal. I do always coat the seal with lubricant though. Just for grins I'd take the new seal and check it's fit on the converter before I installed it. I doubt you'll find a problem but it never hurts to double check everything. The only other item to leak in there is the pump housing...if it were cracked I doubt it would build enough pressure for the trans to work properly though...I've never heard of the pump housing O-ring leaking either but I guess it's possible.

Good Luck!

Tracy
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 07:08 PM
  #27  
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So, how do you put it back in? Do you use a broad-tip punch and just hit it softly, repeatedly in many locations? the shaft is probably too much in the way to tap it with a mallet.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 07:35 PM
  #28  
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From: "Islander"
gtex, before you install the seal check your clearance (fit) with the convertor hub in the pump bushing. Seal area look ok? Polish down the edges on the hub to prevent seal damage. My trans buddy would use different manufactures of bushings if the fit was loose because they would crush down differently to correct for a undersize hub. Far as seal install I use a brass pipe that fits the seal.
.....=o&o>.....
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 08:41 PM
  #29  
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Well crap.. one new seal boogered up.....Why can't this crap just fit? Why is it always a !@#$-hair too big?

I don't have a piece of pipe the right size tp help puch the seal on. Not sure this would have gone in any better if I did. I used a 3/8" ratchet extension with a nice smooth tip and still dimpled the seal metal edge...

I may just take it to the local transmission shop and have them put in the seal. I'm sure they have a decent technique and maybe a few brands of seals.

now to go tear into my new jeep...maybe I can do some more damage there....
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 08:57 PM
  #30  
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Now the darn dipstick tube broke off at the transmission...

anbody got a spare C6 -FE-Truck dipstick and tube?
 
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