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$210 job at the Ford dealer. I'm not too mechanically inclined. But a friend tells me if I can jack up my truck and take them to AutoZone or similar I can have them turned and put them back on myself for < $10 per rotor.
Had any luck taking off the rotors? I'm going to break into the front breaks tommorow and have mine turned also. Talking to the guys on the forum I was able to change the rear breaks. Like you I'm just learning mech. techniques. Having any problems, these guys on hear are nothing but helpful.
I just did my front brakes on my '73, I got new rotors, new pads, new inner bearing seals, new hardware(support key & springs), and wheel grease for $100 at Autozone. The job took me about 45-60 minutes but I have done brakes before. You'll need some needle nose pliers (for cotter key), 1 1/8"?? Wrench/Socket, 9/16" Wrench/Socket, Brass Drift (idealy), Hammer, and a large 8 or so inch C-Clamp makes pushing the pistons back in a lot easier.
I'm a greenhorn, but my expirence with other vehicles are once the rotors need turned the just keep getting worse. If I knew it was so cheap $8 - $10 for each rotor I would have done the rear yesterday. My PSD was vibrating badly however after changing the rear breaks about half stopped. Also if you have abs a little vibration is normal. I'm an police offficer and my crusier has abs and going anything above 70 youll think your teeth will fall out. The bad thing is the car only has 2500 miles on it.
I just replaced my pads recently. When I get the rotors turned, do I need to replace with new pads too? If I do, that would be $150 of new pads down the drain.
I just have "normal" tools. Is that all I need to remove the front rotors?
Basically any shop can do this for under $20? Why the heck the dealer charges so much? Because they can?
If it gouged the rotors, it will need to be inspected for "safe" minimum thickness in order for them to turn it. If it's below that, I think they are not allowed to let the rotor leave the shop. So be prepared to buy a new/used rotor. As far as installing used pads on a newly turned rotor, I don't think it would hurt it. If you're concerned, try re-surfacing the pads by using sand paper on a good flat surface (also check the pad for "somewhat" even thickness of the pads around the edges and center). One very good check when installing any pads is to make sure it fits in the calipers with no binding. It should move slide in and out of the caliper by hand, you can file the edges of the pad plate so it fits snug with no binding. With no pads in the caliper, I would also make sure the calipers move freely on the mounting bolts, clean as necessary. When handling rotors or pads, keep them as grease-free as possible. Paint thinner is good for cleaning and will not leave a residue. Warped rotors are probably going to happen every so often because of the "nature of the beast" with trucks.
I got mine turned about a year ago, after bumpy stops. They lasted for a while and I finally bought new ones for it, after about 6 months they have started shuddering some. Don't know what is up with that, but they were about 200 bucks from Ford for them, and I have a friend who has the same problem. Any ideas?
I've heard that Ford rotors are susceptible to this problem, maybe an aftermarket rotor (like from a company that also makes rotors for racing) would be better? Or just being easier on the brakes, which is not always easy???
i hate to tell you guys but just about any rotors on the superdutys are going to warp from heat that why in 05 they went to 17 inch wheel standard so that they can put bigger brakes on to correct this problem. if you do any towing especially with a trailer without brake your problem is multiplied. about the only way to totally prevent warpage is to change your driving habits. slower stops are key. but then there are the usual emergencies like when that little rice burner pulls out in front of you.
if you have warped rotors you can turn them to smooth it out and not replace the pads if they are still good. but once your rotors have been turned to below minimun machine thickness junk them and get new one because the thinner the rotor the more likely they are to warp again.
good post, thanks for the info. I was surprised to feel the telltale bump after the new rotors, I pull a lot and I have one trailer with no trailer brakes that I pull the most, so that makes sense. My farmer buddy says just another reason to get a Duramax...
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