oil filter ?
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
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oil filter ?
My son's 01 Ranger calls for Motorcraft 820s oil filter and I was wondering if an FL1-A would be okay ? I know it is longer and would hold more oil , but the threads and gasket are the same . thanks in advance
The Pacifier
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,245
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From: Cloverdale, BC
The threads and gasket may be the same, but the physical space being occupied by the filter may not be. I tried with a Bronco 2 and there was just no way it was gonna happen.
And if your son's 01 is a 3.0 you can pretty much forget about it.
And if your son's 01 is a 3.0 you can pretty much forget about it.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 77
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From: Tampa Bay
My son also has an '01 Ranger w/4.0L and he has been using the FL1 for the last two years without problem. I have put the FL1 on a 3.0 that I had, only because I didn't realize I had no 400s until I discarded the one I took off. Yeah, there is not much room for it on the 3.0 but it fits there too.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
I wonder if the longer FL-1A maybe sits too close to the exhust & might run too hot there & "cook" the oil????
I know my 99 4.0L is specified with the FL-1A & it's top shure hangs close to the exhaust & gets plenty hot there. Seems to me it needs a heat shield, sorta like they put on the tranny case on the 4.0L.
I know my 99 4.0L is specified with the FL-1A & it's top shure hangs close to the exhaust & gets plenty hot there. Seems to me it needs a heat shield, sorta like they put on the tranny case on the 4.0L.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: A Double-wide
Originally Posted by J McGuire
My son also has an '01 Ranger w/4.0L and he has been using the FL1 for the last two years without problem. I have put the FL1 on a 3.0 that I had, only because I didn't realize I had no 400s until I discarded the one I took off. Yeah, there is not much room for it on the 3.0 but it fits there too.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 77
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From: Tampa Bay
Reply to GWIGG Yes, I have used the FL1A on a 3.0L . I already had an '93 Ranger with a 4.0L and had several oil filters on the shelf. When I purchased the 3.0L I just assumed that they used the same filter. When I went to change the oil & filter I noticed the small filter and assumed (again) that the other guy used the wrong filter. When I finished and cleaned up THEN I looked in the manual (doesn't everybody do that?) and found that I had used the wrong filter. It fit and did not leak so I left it for the next 3,000 miles. Removing the 400s is bad enough...the FL1A took a little longer.
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,595
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From: IL
I use Motorcraft Fl-1A filters on my 94 Ranger w/4.0L and it has done great until my last oil change, which turned into a bunch a nightmare.
I went through my usual process, put oil around the seal of the new filter before installing, and filled the filter with fresh oil partially to reduce the dry start, then hand tightened 3/4 a turn. Filled it and fired it.
Went back to the motor to look for leaks around the filter and it was blowing oil completely around the seal area. By the time I got back to the cab to shut it off she blew out over 4 quarts and oil pressure never did register on the gauge.
I have had my truck for 8 years and 145000 miles and not one problem. Now I have a terminal tap when she's cold.
I'm rippin mad about it!! I still have the faulty filter which must have a defect to not have tightened/seated normally. Not sure what, if anything, I can do about it (i.e. warranty, liability, etc.). A motor teardown isn't going to be cheap!
I went through my usual process, put oil around the seal of the new filter before installing, and filled the filter with fresh oil partially to reduce the dry start, then hand tightened 3/4 a turn. Filled it and fired it.
Went back to the motor to look for leaks around the filter and it was blowing oil completely around the seal area. By the time I got back to the cab to shut it off she blew out over 4 quarts and oil pressure never did register on the gauge.
I have had my truck for 8 years and 145000 miles and not one problem. Now I have a terminal tap when she's cold.
I'm rippin mad about it!! I still have the faulty filter which must have a defect to not have tightened/seated normally. Not sure what, if anything, I can do about it (i.e. warranty, liability, etc.). A motor teardown isn't going to be cheap!
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the "S" designation indicates a silicone anti drainback valve, as opposed to the old black rubber, right? I know that silicone is more flexible over a wider temperature range. That might be important on a vehicle that specifies a silicone anti-drainback valve.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Did by chance, the old flters seal come loose & stick to the oil filters mounting base & you just missed it, when you screwed the new one on top of it, or is there a crimp problem around where the filters can is crimped to it's base plate????
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: IL
Nope! Always make sure to get the old rubber seal ring off if it didn't come off with the old filter. Also clean the area off the adapter where it seats before installing the new one. I can't see any problem with the faulty filter on the outside, it must be on the inside.
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