Replaced belt 2000 miles ago at 67000 for the first time. Old one had fine cracks and squealed a lot. Guess what? New one squeals some too, especially on startup when it's raining. At higher speeds you don't notice it with the wind and all or maybe it just stops. Is there an easy fix? Truth is I can live with it if it's not gonna cost me money. '99 Ranger, 3.0 liter

 

Here is Fords ways to fix Squeeks from drive belts, also do a search for serpentine belts and you will find lots of posts.
Dave

Possible Source(s):
Drive belt.
Pulley(s).

Action(s) to take:
DETERMINE what area of the pulley(s) the noise is coming from, then CHECK that area with a straightedge and look for the accessory pulley(s) to be out of position in the fore or aft direction, or at an angle to the straightedge.

Possible Source(s):
Incorrect drive belt installed.

Action(s) to take:
CHECK the drive belt for correct part application.

Possible Source(s):
Lubricant or other contamination on the drive belt.

Action(s) to take:
CHECK the drive belt for oil, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid or other contamination. REMOVE the drive belt and wash with detergent and water. If the drive belt cannot be cleaned or is damaged (softened) by contamination, INSTALL a new drive belt.

Possible Source(s):
Drive belt pulleys not aligned properly, damaged or not rotating freely.

Action(s) to take:
CHECK the pulleys for proper alignment, devices and pulleys for proper freedom of rotation and damage. REPAIR the pulleys and devices as required.

Original equipment drive belts are made of a special cord construction and are subjected to special testing before they are approved for use.

Replacement drive belts, other than O.E.M., may track differently or improperly. If a replacement drive belt tracks improperly, the drive belt should be replaced with an O.E.M. drive belt to avoid performance failure or loss of drive belt during cold operation.

With the engine running, check drive belt tracking (the position of the drive belt on one of the grooveless pulleys, idlers or drive belt tensioner. If the edge of the drive belt rides beyond the edge of the pulley, noise and premature wear may result). If a drive belt tracking condition exists, visually check the drive belt tensioner for damage, especially the mounting pad surface. If the drive belt tensioner is not installed correctly with the locating pins in the locating holes, the mounting surface pad will be out of position. This will result in abnormal drive belt tension and chirp and squeal noises.

If the above procedures do not correct the drive belt noise, try replacing the drive belt with a known good original equipment drive belt. However, the drive belt noise may return (with mileage) if one of the above conditions still exists uncorrected.

With engine running, visually observe the grooves in the pulleys (not the pulley flanges) for excessive wobble. Install new components as required.

Check all accessories, mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner, for any interference that would prevent the component from mounting properly. Correct any interference condition and recheck belt tracking.

Tighten all accessories, mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner retaining hardware to specification. Recheck drive belt tracking.

Belt Tensioner
The automatic drive belt tensioner can be checked as follows:

1. With the engine running, observe the drive belt tensioner movement. The drive belt tensioner should move (respond) when the A/C clutch cycles or when the engine is accelerated rapidly. If the drive belt tensioner movement is constant without A/C clutch cycling or acceleration, a pulley or shaft is probably bent or a pulley is out of round. In rare cases, excessive drive belt rideout (uneven depth of grooves in drive belt) can cause excessive drive belt tensioner movement. This condition can be checked by replacing the suspect drive belt with a known good original equipment drive belt and repeating the observation.

 

I had the same problem. I installed an aftermarket AKA "cheap" belt. Replaced it with a Gates brand and no more squeal.

SD

 

I would clean the crank pulley and go with a Motorcraft belt.

 

I have chirp sound in my B4000. I installed new OE belt but still have chirp.Dealer says it is the AC pulley bearing. A new kit assy installed will cost $500+.

 

Had the same thing...I replaced the idler pulley and the squeal was gone.

 

When changing serpentine belts I always thoroughly clean all of the pulleys. Wash your hands and dry them thoroughly before handling the new belt. Keep it clean and keep it dry. 99/100 problem solved. It takes very little oil/grease/moisture for a serpentine belt to squeal.

I always use NAPA belts and have not had a problem that I can remember.

Russ

 

I have a 2002 Ford Ranger w/ 3.0 & A/C which started to experience belt "chirping" at startup and more noticeable in rainy/humid weather, after it got worse I had the Ford dealer change it as a precaution...The condition immediatly went away! (new motorcraft serpentine belt)

But guess what?...Yep the squeeling returned approx 3 months and 2000 miles later (May 31st)

-This time I took the belt off and cleaned all the pulleys with alcohol and a toothbrush, I also cleaned the Serpentine belt, I noticed that the top idler pulley had about a 1/32nd" play in it fore & aft. Reassembled everything and it seemed after the cleaning, everything got louder and worse! Loading up the accessory's amplified the squeeling! (Headlights on bright, Max AC,Radio,Cigarette lighter etc...)

So after the 3rd time of removing the belt I went out and purchased a new idler pulley, and a "Goodyear Gatorback poly V" belt " which boasts that they are the "Quiet Belt"...alot tighter in the new install vs. the motorcraft one with only 2000 miles on it. After a couple busted knuckles and a burnt fore arm, I fired-up the engine and she purred like a kitten! The NASCAR logo looks cool on the belt as well!--Good luck! just relaying my experience,a word to the wise-Spend the extra money and get a Goodyear Gatorback cross-hatched Serpentine belt!

 

I've always had good luck with a Dayton brand belt from Autozone, and I change mine every year regardless of mileage. Also FWIW, here's a trick an old mechanic taught me: To tell the difference between a bad bearing and a bad belt: Be careful and trickle a small amount of water onto a belt while the engine is running. If the noise remains, it's a bearing. If it goes away it's the belt.

 

After replacing the A/C clutch pulley,which I needed anyway,and the tensioner pulley,to no avail,I replaced the idler pulley,and that was definately my problem. IVXIV

 

1. Install new idler pulley. Many Fords had trouble with the bearings in them.
2. Buy Goodyear Gatorback belt.
3. Problem solved.

 

Question, Cost of a new " idler.?"

 

I have screwed it down to the "idler" what is it going to cost?

 

Just to remove the obvious, I have sprayed all the lube I can and the "chirp" starteded immediatly. Hence Metal contact, this screamed berings to me, and the most over done one of all, the idler.

How much and is it pressed or a formed one?

 

The idler pulley isn't much, you can price one online, I got mine from rockauto.com.