frame paint
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old and in the way
Joined: Jul 1997
Posts: 5,912
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
Originally Posted by fatfenders
J
And why have you decided to put a Chevy engine in your truck? You know how we feel about that.
And why have you decided to put a Chevy engine in your truck? You know how we feel about that.
'splain please ??? powder ??? can't hide the flaws in my frame with powder and the build thickness would kill me putting suspension back together...
later
john
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
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From: Iowa
???? well, that one flew right past me 'splain please ???
Just a follow on post to xfordman. We're causing trouble, and it isn't any fun when we have to explain it to you. Now pay attention J.
And Imron is a Dupont's version of urethane in case you don't know. You have a strong majority recommending urethane. It's wicked stuff on the lungs though. How long can you hold your breath?
And epoxy primer sticks to bare metal. Just as well as etch primer IMO.
Just a follow on post to xfordman. We're causing trouble, and it isn't any fun when we have to explain it to you. Now pay attention J.
And Imron is a Dupont's version of urethane in case you don't know. You have a strong majority recommending urethane. It's wicked stuff on the lungs though. How long can you hold your breath?
And epoxy primer sticks to bare metal. Just as well as etch primer IMO.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 785
Likes: 6
From: Columbus, Ohio
What I'm going to do is blast the frame, then cover it with DP90 epoxy. After that, 2 coats of single stage will go on. It's tough, looks good, and will have good color retention.
I don't think you'll have to worry about color fade down there. If your frame is pitted, you can grind on it a little to smooth it out. Then the epoxy, then a little K36 until you're happy. After that, seal it and 2 coats of single stage. That should be good on the frame, and be thin enough to clear your components.
I hear people mentioning rock chips a lot, and I haven't had any probs like that. I rebuilt my whole front susp, used rattle can primer, and Eastwood "Chassis Black" on it. Daisy is my daily driver, and we have an abundance of ol'skool dirt and gravel roads out here - no chips. I think the chipping would occur if you're paint is too thick, and/or you're abusing your truck. None of us are here to put these trucks through their first lives again!
I don't think you'll have to worry about color fade down there. If your frame is pitted, you can grind on it a little to smooth it out. Then the epoxy, then a little K36 until you're happy. After that, seal it and 2 coats of single stage. That should be good on the frame, and be thin enough to clear your components.
I hear people mentioning rock chips a lot, and I haven't had any probs like that. I rebuilt my whole front susp, used rattle can primer, and Eastwood "Chassis Black" on it. Daisy is my daily driver, and we have an abundance of ol'skool dirt and gravel roads out here - no chips. I think the chipping would occur if you're paint is too thick, and/or you're abusing your truck. None of us are here to put these trucks through their first lives again!
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
My buddy is building a 35 Ford. Instead of painting the frame, he had the frame powercoated. Since the car will be a light blue, he had the frame powdercoated the same color. They have just about any color you need and it has a shiney texture to it. What's nice about the powdercoat is it will not crack, peel, or scratch like regular paint surface. Not sure if it's applicable to your truck, John, but it's a thought.
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old and in the way
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
Now pay attention J.
SORRY... I don't do subtle at this hour...
You have a strong majority recommending urethane. It's wicked stuff on the lungs though. How long can you hold your breath?
I think that is the way to go also... but I'm gonna use Sherwin-Williams...huge discount (like free) if I buy thru a 'friend' contractor...
hold my breath ??? pftttht... no need... when you can get the best respirator that USS can afford !!
And epoxy primer sticks to bare metal. Just as well as etch primer IMO.
that is also in the plan....
thanks for all the advice and harrassment
later
j
SORRY... I don't do subtle at this hour...
You have a strong majority recommending urethane. It's wicked stuff on the lungs though. How long can you hold your breath?
I think that is the way to go also... but I'm gonna use Sherwin-Williams...huge discount (like free) if I buy thru a 'friend' contractor...
hold my breath ??? pftttht... no need... when you can get the best respirator that USS can afford !!
And epoxy primer sticks to bare metal. Just as well as etch primer IMO.
that is also in the plan....
thanks for all the advice and harrassment
later
j
Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
I used Imron on an aluminum fishing boat that sees an enormous amount of abuse. I got it from a body shop for free(they said they can't use it anymore because it was so bad for your health). WOW what a tuff paint. I put it on with a brush and it smoothed really well and covered a lot of surface area. I thought that it was no longer available. Does sombody have a source for the paint and the hardener?
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