I was out at the salvage yard and found a steering gear box in a truck that was painted a pretty dark ford blue with a new rebuild sticker on it. After a while I went back (a few days later) and took it off. I paid 50 bucks for it. thats pretty good I thought. Anyway the worm gear needs a little adjusting to take out some slack. How much can you safely tighten them?

 

A mechanic told me to turn the screw in all the way till it stops, then back it out 3/4 of a turn and set the lock nut. I haven't tried it for myself, but that is what I have been told.

 

i did the samething and heres what i got.

Ok that sucked!
tightend the adjusting bolt all the way down and backed it off a bit. now the steering wheel is hard to turn and the want go back stright after you let go of it.
Well after play with the screw for 2 days now with no luck on getting it to at least back to the way it was. Im replacing it. yes i checked power steering fluid and turned the wheel many time to see if there was air in lines but with no luck.

now the good news. i have a busted POS 86 ranger taking up parking space, and get this the gear box is the same.
Here is a great place to find matching parts by the numbers to different models and makes.
http://www.partsamerica.com
after you find the (replacement part) your looking for.
(this is the part i found Cardone 277516) on the right
hand side about mid way down is a block that says Buyers Guide.
click on this and it will list all the makes an models that match that part.
also i found this at autozone.com its a complete how to test, inspect, and replace the broken parts along with testing and replacing worm gears
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d80051668.jsp

sorry for the long post. I know what a pain it is to read and understand what im trying to say.
but im swapping the gear boxes this weekend i will take pics and put in my gallery.
also does anyone know what size nut it is on the pitman arm? I have a 1 1/4 socket but is still too small.

 

Center the wheel and tighten the screw till it just touches then back it off just enough to keep it from binding is what I have done when working on them.

 

EBSTEVE, that's correct, a few days ago when I read crank it down "ouch" that will destroy a box. the best way is to disconnect the drag link at the pitman arm, in the straight ahead position which is tightest set the preload until you just detect drag. This is with your hand on the rag joint not the big steering wheel for leverage. Anti-seize pitman spline and taper joints for easy removal. For longer life run a large steering cooler with NEO steering oil, it has better lubrication properties than ATF, it's used in race and stock cars.
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