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Let's talk about sound deadeners

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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 10:41 AM
  #31  
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Gentlemen,

In LMC, they have the sound deadner and heat shield for $39.95. I bought the material and in the process of attaching it to the cab. They also have sound control mat for $12.95 (12X23 sheet). I am going to use the 3M spray trim adhesive #08074. Hopefully it will hold this stuff when the temp is above 100 degrees out here in El Paso, TX. On the can it said not be used for automotive headliners. Mid-Fifty has everything in their book from page 22-27. Hopefully this helps some of you guys out.

James
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 11:30 AM
  #32  
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AX, I was at Lowe's yesterday picking up some Peel 'n' Seal, and saw the "bubble wrap" you are describing. It appears to be perfect for headliners because of the foil on both sides (heat rejection), and low weight. As I recall, it is available in both 2' and 4' widths. I would use the "HVAC tape" they sell right near it, rather than the cloth-backed tape, it is HD aluminum and is a commercial product made just for this, whereas I would expect the cloth to decay under heat.

I was curious about whether it would pop under the rubber mat (when stepped on), thanks for clearing that up.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 03:04 PM
  #33  
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if you are talkign about reflecticx it works wonders for heat as that is that we installed in the roof of our popup camper and it also help as it deaded some of the souond when it rains
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 05:04 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
AX, I was at Lowe's yesterday picking up some Peel 'n' Seal, and saw the "bubble wrap" you are describing. It appears to be perfect for headliners because of the foil on both sides (heat rejection), and low weight. As I recall, it is available in both 2' and 4' widths. I would use the "HVAC tape" they sell right near it, rather than the cloth-backed tape, it is HD aluminum and is a commercial product made just for this, whereas I would expect the cloth to decay under heat.

I was curious about whether it would pop under the rubber mat (when stepped on), thanks for clearing that up.
I plan on using it under the carpet, on the firewall and the walls and roof of my panel truck. I'd use the 3M spray adhesive on any vertical or overhead surfaces, I wouldn't expect tape to hold there. We put our tire covers in the back of the Celica under the hatch window, and haven't had any issues with the tape letting go or deteriorating so I think it would work fine under the carpet and firewall. The Aluminum foil tape definitely holds at all temps I've used it on metal heating ducts, but it does tear easily. The plastic inside the mat is more like a 3-D honeycomb than airfilled bubbles so there is nothing to pop.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 05:46 PM
  #35  
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Sorta kinda on this subject does anyone know of a good way to remove previously installed sound deadner/insulation that was put in with 3M adhesive?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 05:58 PM
  #36  
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I'd try scraping it off as much as possible and removing the residue with naptha (paint store, coleman fuel, or lighter fluid) that stuff disolves most adhesives without damaging paint. There is a commercial weatherstripping adhesive remover ($$$)available at auto paint suppliers if the naptha doesn't work.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 06:01 PM
  #37  
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Thanks, I would like to remove what's in my truck and try some of the Lizard Skin ceramic spray in insulation/sound deadner for my 2005-06 Winter project. Just trying to get my ducks in a row.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 05:00 PM
  #38  
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Tacson, you could also use acetone to remove the adhesives. I use it all the time here at work to remove adhesives.

James - you might want to use something other than that spray adhesive. It will lose it's tackyness when the heat cranks up. I remember reading the can pretty closely when I bought it last, but missed the part about headliners which is what I wanted to use it for. Needless to say the headliner came down. I expect you will have similar problems due to your location.

Fox
 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 05:23 PM
  #39  
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Acetone is a pretty powerful solvent. It will remove most paints as well as adhesive so try it in a hidden location. Wipe some on, let it sit for a minute and apply some more, wait again and apply a 3rd time. if you haven't removed the paint or gotten color on the rag try a larger space. I'd work outside with the doors open and chemical resistant gloves and organic solvent rated gas mask. Acetone fumes are deadly and extremely flamable, and it will give you a nasty chemical burn if it gets on your skin under a ring, watch or clothing. It is not soluable in water so you can't just rinse it off your body or pour it down a drain. It would be a last resort choice IMHO.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 06:26 PM
  #40  
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Has anybody ever tried using "Goo Gone"? It is an adhesive solvent that is completely non-reactive to finishes, even plastic. It's a petrolium-based sovent that is cheap and available at any hardware store or Home Depot, etc. I have used in many times and haven't run accross an adhesive yet that it won't get off. I first discovered it to remove those pesky paper price labels that never seem to come off that new goodie I just bought.

Just a thought.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 07:49 PM
  #41  
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Yeah, Goo Gone works pretty well. There's a similar product I use called Oops, by Homax Products. I think they both have the same active ingredient in them. Both smell like lighter fluid to me.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 08:10 PM
  #42  
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yep, both are naptha, which WILL harm latex paint. We keep a can of lighter fluid (1/4 the price) handy even tho we don't smoke to remove those #^%*& anti theft price stickers and some product labels that would otherwise require dynamite.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 01:04 AM
  #43  
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Thanks Guys I will try to pick up some Oops and give it a try. I really would like to see if the Lizard Skin is as good as the magazines are making it out to be. My AC unit would appreciate I know.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2005 | 04:14 PM
  #44  
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Well, I finally had some time to apply the Lizard Skin product as discussed a few months ago. The product went on like a latex paint spit out of a sand blast gun. The whole job took 2 hours including masking off the painted areas. There was very little stank involved as the product is water based. Clean up took 15 minutes including masking removal and gun wash. This product is zero smell the next morning. I was able to do 3 coats which gave me a total thickness of approx. 080" thick.The really good part is a test using a heat gun,which yielded a 30 degree temp diff from before and after application. Sound will also drop after glass and interior are in. I will install the Mid Fifty kit next week over the Lizard Skin. This baby shoud be real quiet and cool when complete. Cost:180.00 and 2 hours. Rating: 10 I put 2 new pics under "Body Work" in gallery. Will update on next part.
 

Last edited by El Cabron; Jul 28, 2005 at 04:16 PM.
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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 05:13 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by El Cabron
Well, I finally had some time to apply the Lizard Skin product as discussed a few months ago. The product went on like a latex paint spit out of a sand blast gun. The whole job took 2 hours including masking off the painted areas. There was very little stank involved as the product is water based. Clean up took 15 minutes including masking removal and gun wash. This product is zero smell the next morning. I was able to do 3 coats which gave me a total thickness of approx. 080" thick.The really good part is a test using a heat gun,which yielded a 30 degree temp diff from before and after application. Sound will also drop after glass and interior are in. I will install the Mid Fifty kit next week over the Lizard Skin. This baby shoud be real quiet and cool when complete. Cost:180.00 and 2 hours. Rating: 10 I put 2 new pics under "Body Work" in gallery. Will update on next part.
This is great to know El Cabron. As soon as I can get a day off work and can figure a way to remove the Insulator brand insulation off my firewall and firewall I am looking to put some in my 55'. So did you shoot your head liner and back wall as well? Keep the pictures coming. Shoot even email me some at this user name on aol.com. How do you do the "Heat Gun" test? Thanks for the feedback for this inquiring. Keep me posted I am interested if no one else is. Thanks
 
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