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Hubs are essentialy 3 parts. The outer cover and the knod thingy to engage the hub, the outer splined collar that meshes with the rotor, and an inner splined piece that goes over the stub shaft (and when you lock the hub in, the cover has a flanged type thingy that pushes the 2 splined collars over the stub shaft and over each other to engage that wheel), and its all held together by what seems to me (on stock hubs) pot metal. Now when the t-case is engaged the stub shaft spins and i believe turns the spline collar on the stub shaft (i belive thats what turns in there, i would have to take a quick look at a hub to make sure), and with this thing turning is will wear that pot metal out and destroy the hub over time. If you pull a hub out and clean it and inspect it reall good you will see what i mean. But that is why its bad to leave the tc engaged and the hubs unlocked for extend periods, but having it the other way around doesn't hurt anything except your fuel mileage.
Not all hubs are created equal. My shaft rides on needle bearings. Still there isn't any need to run 4HI at high speed where most of the supposed damage could occur. I run mine in 4LO unlocked to pull up ramps, maneuver real slow in tight places etc. Also real handy for slow moving lines, saves me from having to clutch all the time once I establish the pace of the line. With these slow shaft RPMs I can't see how it would ever hurt anything.
Hubs are essentialy 3 parts. The outer cover and the knod thingy to engage the hub, the outer splined collar that meshes with the rotor, and an inner splined piece that goes over the stub shaft (and when you lock the hub in, the cover has a flanged type thingy that pushes the 2 splined collars over the stub shaft and over each other to engage that wheel), and its all held together by what seems to me (on stock hubs) pot metal. Now when the t-case is engaged the stub shaft spins and i believe turns the spline collar on the stub shaft (i belive thats what turns in there, i would have to take a quick look at a hub to make sure), and with this thing turning is will wear that pot metal out and destroy the hub over time. If you pull a hub out and clean it and inspect it reall good you will see what i mean. But that is why its bad to leave the tc engaged and the hubs unlocked for extend periods, but having it the other way around doesn't hurt anything except your fuel mileage.
Wouldn't running the front unlocked and 4by engaged be the same wear as the front unlocked and in 2wd, if not more, since the front wheels are still turning relative to the axleshafts. Atleast in 4low with the front unlocked, the axle shaft to wheel speed would be approx. 2:1 (assuming a 2:1 low range), whereas in 2hi with the front unlocked, the shafts don't even turn, giving a 0:1 ratio, which is infinitely higher than the 4low scenario.
IAM.CA is correct in a way. only that its not 2:1 it'll only be 1:1 regardless of low/high range. (The reduction is in the transfercase and the rear axle is still moving the truck)
You WONT wear out your hubs if you leave them unlocked and the transfercase in 4 wheel drive because the hub and the axle shafts will spin at the same speed as long as all four wheels are moving. In fact, any wear in the hub is caused by running the truck with the hubs unlocked and the T-case in 2WD because in this case, the hubs are spinning but the axle shafts are not.
The only real reason the hubs are there is to improve gas mileage when 4 wheel drive is not needed.
The hubs along with the transfer case will disconnect the entire front driveline to reduce rolling mass. (Axleshafts, Differential, Driveshaft)
Good point, I would have to take a look at a hub again, but there some funky reason why having the t-case engage and hubs unlocked you will wear the hubs over time, but i know theres a reason (and what i explain above is what i thought it was, but with your point it appears to be something different). Once i get a chance to look at a hub again i will dig this back up and post my findings (this is going to keep me up all night )
Heheh well Mustange, think of it this way... When the truck is in 4 wheel drive, hubs locked or unlocked, all four tires, hubs, and axles will spin at the same speed. There would be no wear.
in 2 wheel drive and hubs unlocked. All four tires will spin, but the front axles wont. So now the hubs spin but the axle shafts inside them dont. This is where the wearing of the hubs would occur because the axle shaft is not rotating at all. On the D44 HD axle, the axle shaft spins on a big metal bushing when its unlocked(or rather, the hub spins around the axle shaft.) If you still dont understand, i could probably animate an example in flash.
Ah i know what it was, whens people don't use grease in the hubs you will wear them out quicker than normal , i know what you mean now, as it has been bugging me over the last few days, then it hit me tonight like bam!, no grease=quicker wearing out hubs .
I for the life of me cannot figure out how the lockouts will be worn out by not locking them in but in 4wd. Part of the lockout is always on the stub shafts and the rest is in the wheel hub. The stub is not spinning 95% of it's life on the highway yet the lock out spins around the stub shaft, so driving it in 4 lo without the hubs locks is not going to do anything to the life of the hubs.
If someone knows something I do not please speak up.
Jopey, its what i've been saying. The only wear that occurs to the hub, if any, is when its unlocked and in 2 wheel drive where the hub spins but the stub shaft doesnt.
OR if the hubs are unlocked but the truck is in 4 wheel drive with the two rear tires spinning, which is the exact same as the above.
As with all moving parts, keep them well lubed for long lasting satisfaction
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