I have a 302 with a block ID of E6SE

THe Other numbers near that are
BA
A Large "S" with 17 above to the right f the "S"

Then on the tab at the back it has 8A21

From what I can tell this is a HO 302 and yes it is a roller block.

A am I correct in saying this is out of an 86 Mustang, T-Bird etc?

It has flat top pistons and I wanted to put a mild cam in as this motor is going into a 79 F-150 that will be carburated with an Eldebrock Performer manifold and carb.

I will be using the reverse water pump and timing chain cover off the newer motor as the indent is for the fuel pump is there I just need to cut it out.
I will also switch over the serpintine belt system and the block is going in for rebuil next week and it will be bored .30 over.

Anyone that can let me know if I am on the right track here?

 

the e6se means the part was originally designed in 1986. the second e is for engine parts and s is for thunderbird, the car line for which the engine was originally designed. if the 8A21 is cast into the block, that is the date the engine was cast. january 21, 1988. if it is stamped, that is the date the engine was built. your block more than likely came out of an 88 model year car or truck. if the pistons are truely flat with no dish or valve relief notches, your engine came out of something other than an ho mustang, but you are correct, it is an ho roller block. cheers, garsten

 

There is a slight amount of the pistons that is resessed maybe 1/32nd with the outer part being maybe 1/2" at the most. would this still be consifered a flat top? There are no valve releases as I do have a 79 truck motor and they have the valve relief's but I want to use the HO motor in the truck.

Thanks,

 

i wouldn't be too concerned about what vehicle your engine came from. you say the block needs to be bored so you are going to be buying new pistons sooner or later. piston choice will depend on compression ratio desired, cam choice, cylinder heads and valve diameter. the fact that you have a roller block allows you to use a roller camshaft and roller lifters for improved performance and many many aftermarket choices. if you are going to use the 79 cylinder heads, they will be a major obstacle to any performance gains, followed closely by your exhaust system. cheers, garsten

 

Garten,

Thanks for all you insight.
I have another set of heads that have been rebuilt I bought of a guy who needed some $. They are the Heart Shaped chambers with new valves, seats, guides etc. I was yold that those heads are great if I mod the chamber a bit by grinding off the center part of the chamber if you understand that:-)

If I used flat top pistons with those heads how much bigger of a cam do you think I can get away with?

I already have a new set of Hooker headers I bought off the same guy the had the heads. I gave him 200 bucks for all. The headers will fit a 79 150.

What else?


Thanks Again!

Roger

 

I AM NOT A CAM GURU SO READ THIS WITH SOME SPECULATION!!

cam selection depends on lots of stuff...here are some general guideline for a street truck with good idle and a low enough power band to get you moving. power should start around 1000-1500 rpms. keep the duration around 220 degrees @ 0.05". lobe seperation no less than 110 degrees (comp cams has a bunch of cams @ 110 degrees). some people say no less than 112 degrees and that's what i would use, but i know a lot of people like the comp cams and probably for good reasons. i have never used one so i would not know. if the heads have the stock valves and have not had a lot of metal milled off, and the pistons are for a 5.0L ho, you SHOULD??? be able to run around .530 lift. when you increase lift and duration, you really need to check piston to valve clearance before head installation. it's not that difficult and pays peace of mind.

look at the ford racing 303 series of cams for some more ideas as to lift and duration of waht they sell. with the exception of the Z303 cam, i believe all the rest SHOULD??? drop in without a problem.

i've pushed the envelope with larger intake valves, too much lift and stock pistons and almost destroyed pistons and valve train by trying to slide buy with thick copper head gaskets. intake valves barely touched the pistons but did no damage. i did have to pull the engine and have the pistons flycut for proper clearance and the cylinder heads torn apart and checked for bent valves. a costly mistake everyone should avoid.

increased lift also means you need the right valve springs to open and close valves at the proper rate. too much spring pressure may damage your cam and too little spring pressure will not close the valves fast enough and the pistons may help them along. if the springs are near stock, stick with a cam near stock. most cam mfgs offer their cams in a kit with springs, lifters and everything else for this very reason.

check out cam mfgs web sites. they list recommended usage for a specific cam grind. ask your machinists or local engine builders for advice. cheers, garsten

 

keep your stock cam. or get a truck roller cam for your block which will require the roller lifters, dog bones and db hold down in order to work.

those heads sound like 86 heads, which are garbage, don't even waste your money on them.

if you want power get an aftermarket aluminum head with a small intake port to help low end torque. i've head gt40 irons (l303) gt40x, holley heads, windsor srs and afr 165's. best of the bunch would be the 165's.

don't nickel and dime yourself to death with garbage parts. e7 is a good head for a tight budget, can get them for50 bucks or free.