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with all the great info here, the more I read the more confused I get, somewhere people were saying certain oils are not good for flat tappet cams, I never knew that!!! I use a 10-30 with a SL rating, is there a problem?
There may be a problem when SL oil is replaced by SM. As the phosphorus limits continue to fall in newer oil formulations, the amount of ZDDP EP/AW additive falls with it. Virtually all newer cars and light trucks use roller cam followers, so this is not harmful to new engines still under warranty. With the government mandated extended warranty on emissions items, including the cats, the automakers and lube oil blenders are in kind of a formulation bind. Funny how the engine itself is only warranted to 36,000 miles but the cats to 100,000. No wonder we have 5W-20 with low ZDDP.
The single highest friction/wear point in the engine is the cam-lifter interface, that is why roller cams are standard now. Some of the new SM oils, like Chevron/Havoline and Pennzoil contain a lot of moly to replace the zinc. This may take care of the problem.
If you are really worried about it, use a good HDMO, like Chevron Delo 400, but they are not sold in 10W-30 here in SoCal. 15W-40 is not too thick here anyway, since it is rated for cold cranking down to +4F.
Noting that in your profile your driveway must look like an oldy car show, even the SL rated oils are going to be weak for these engines. There are options for you though. Because of the lowering of the ZDDP anti-wear agents and that the engines were made way before any limits were set, you need to find either an additive or an oil with lots of the ZDDP. You can use Amsoil HDD by the quart as an additive to your Chevron oil or you can buy Valvolines Synpower additive which has about 2400 ppms of ZDDP. I would use a half of a bottle or 6 oz per 5 qt oil change. This would bring the add pack up to where it should be for these older engines.
Flash..thanks for the info, one 66 mustang has a new 302 roller cam motor, so I guess its safe..thank you for the kind words (old car show), my wife calls it a junk yard.........LOL
With the government mandated extended warranty on emissions items, including the cats, the automakers and lube oil blenders are in kind of a formulation bind. Funny how the engine itself is only warranted to 36,000 miles but the cats to 100,000. No wonder we have 5W-20 with low ZDDP.
I find it really stupid that because of the emission items, oil formilation may not be optimal for the engine, usually the single highest cost item in a car. How much is the CAT cost, anyhow? I saw prices on replacement high flow cats, and they were in the vicinity of $100 - $200. Even adding labor cost and using OEM parts, it should still be under a grand, but possibly less than $500. But what if the engine fails? Chances are good that one is out of at least a couple of grands.
A better comparison may be the DM (direct material) cost between CATs and engines, and I bet that the DM cost of an engine is at least 10 times as much as the DM cost of a CAT in a given car.
Last edited by aurgathor; May 11, 2005 at 08:12 PM.
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