New builder
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New User
Joined: Jul 2008
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New builder
So what i'm reading is that you can reuse your crank, rods , and so on but if i want a little more power i can throw in a cam, and install new carb to jack up horse power.
Any more
advice
Thanks
Any more
advice Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,949
Likes: 6
From: Earth
You can reuse rods and crank depending on their condition, they will probably need to be ground .010". If the block needs an overbore (likely) you need new pistons/rings. Machine work on a short block will run from $500-1,500 depending on your core and ultimate power goal.
Cam choice sort of depends on what you're trying to do. As a general rule aftermarket cams will outperform your stock grind by 30-40 hp. Carb, intake, exhaust, etc. needs to match the cam's rpm range as well as the short block, heads, and intended use. You can't just throw a bunch of parts together and assume they'll work.
Cam choice sort of depends on what you're trying to do. As a general rule aftermarket cams will outperform your stock grind by 30-40 hp. Carb, intake, exhaust, etc. needs to match the cam's rpm range as well as the short block, heads, and intended use. You can't just throw a bunch of parts together and assume they'll work.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,213
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From: Parma, MI
Hey I got one of those! Mine has 302 HO and its plenty fast enough with the stock gearing in the 8.8 rear end from the stang. It will run about 120 in 3rd gear...
It has an edelbrock cam, torker II intake, 600 performer carb, Accel points eliminater in the dizzy, and headers.
It has an edelbrock cam, torker II intake, 600 performer carb, Accel points eliminater in the dizzy, and headers.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
Rebuilding an engine is always exploratory surgery. You disassemble, inspect and measure. There is no reason that the crank will have to be turned or the cylinders will have to be bored. It's impossible to know whether or not this will be necessary until the machinist measures everything with his micrometers.
As far as cam choice goes, sure you can cam it up, moving the torque peak to a higher RPM, thus effecting the HP calculation. It will not add any torque, it will just bring in that torque at a higher RPM effecting the HP calculation. This will make it faster in the quarter mile, but driving on the street is not usually a 1/4 mile drag race. What you need on the street is lots of torque at a reasonable RPM.
If you will keep the duration at .050 lift below about 210 degrees, you can get a slight torque increase without building an unmanageable high RPM engine.
If you want more power and torque for the street, do things to increase the intake and exhaust system flow without getting carried away with cam choice.
An engine is a pump. The more fuel/air you flow into it, the more power it will make.
As far as cam choice goes, sure you can cam it up, moving the torque peak to a higher RPM, thus effecting the HP calculation. It will not add any torque, it will just bring in that torque at a higher RPM effecting the HP calculation. This will make it faster in the quarter mile, but driving on the street is not usually a 1/4 mile drag race. What you need on the street is lots of torque at a reasonable RPM.
If you will keep the duration at .050 lift below about 210 degrees, you can get a slight torque increase without building an unmanageable high RPM engine.
If you want more power and torque for the street, do things to increase the intake and exhaust system flow without getting carried away with cam choice.
An engine is a pump. The more fuel/air you flow into it, the more power it will make.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2008
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How do you like your cobra, do you have finished pics, what yr is your 302 and what would you suggest w/ mine its plain stock now, engine is tore apart all looks good, just need to jack it up a little..
Thanks
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,213
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From: Parma, MI
The car is amazing. I can honestly say that you dont need a nasty motor to make these things really haul due to the weight. Tube chassis, aluminium inner body and trim, and fiberglass body.
Its HO roller block, im guessing around 90-93'. I intended on doing a 331 or 347 stroker when i got the car, but it is totally not necesarry. 4:10 gears, and I will leave it along.
Its HO roller block, im guessing around 90-93'. I intended on doing a 331 or 347 stroker when i got the car, but it is totally not necesarry. 4:10 gears, and I will leave it along.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,213
Likes: 0
From: Parma, MI
As far as your engine goes...
I'd definitly do an upgrade on pistons. Cast pistons will be fine for your application and you can get some Federal Moguls for about $9 a piece in 9.1 compression range. The ones you have are probley dished(low compression), and your heads are not helping either. Maybe find a set of E7 heads, they can usually be found cheap and are plentiful. GT40's are another option but a bit more pricey.
I'd definitly do an upgrade on pistons. Cast pistons will be fine for your application and you can get some Federal Moguls for about $9 a piece in 9.1 compression range. The ones you have are probley dished(low compression), and your heads are not helping either. Maybe find a set of E7 heads, they can usually be found cheap and are plentiful. GT40's are another option but a bit more pricey.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,949
Likes: 6
From: Earth
Dude, in a hot rod get yourself a roller block and one of Comp's Thumpr cams. A feller at the local speed shop had a fox body Mustang with one and it gave me a freakin' eargasm. It'd be even sweeter through sidepipes. He dynoed it over 330 rwhp to boot. That'd be spooky fast in a 2000lb kit car.
Saw a guy on Craigslist with a new FRPP roller short block for sale the other day for $1,200. $2,000 with a pair of Edelbrock heads...
Saw a guy on Craigslist with a new FRPP roller short block for sale the other day for $1,200. $2,000 with a pair of Edelbrock heads...
That's freakin awesome... love the color.