Window won't stop going down
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Window won't stop going down
I have a 97' Ranger. On the drivers side, when I hit the Auto-down window button, the window goes down but does not stop. You can hear a gear or something continuing to try and go down. If I hit the Up side, the window will stop. I'm assuming that a stop-sensor has broken. Anyone have any experience as to how the window motor stops, and/or what needs fixed/replaced?
Jeff
Jeff
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Welcome to FTE!
The Generic Electronic Module (GEM) is mostly responsible for controlling the One-Touch-Down (OTD) function. Your problem could lie there.
However, like XLT says, there is also a Relay associated with (and specific to) the OTD function. The Relay is located in the instrument panel relay module box that is to the right of the steering column. Look in your Owner's Manual to pinpoint the exact location of the Relay in the box, and then check it.
The Generic Electronic Module (GEM) is mostly responsible for controlling the One-Touch-Down (OTD) function. Your problem could lie there.
However, like XLT says, there is also a Relay associated with (and specific to) the OTD function. The Relay is located in the instrument panel relay module box that is to the right of the steering column. Look in your Owner's Manual to pinpoint the exact location of the Relay in the box, and then check it.
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Rockledge.....how would you check the relay in the box?
I assume by the posts, that there isn't some sort of stop mechanism at the bottom of the window that may have broken...correct?
I never took the door apart to look at it. I was hoping to get some answers here before attempting it. Does this relay control all the functions?
I assume by the posts, that there isn't some sort of stop mechanism at the bottom of the window that may have broken...correct?
I never took the door apart to look at it. I was hoping to get some answers here before attempting it. Does this relay control all the functions?
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I found the relay's and switched the relay with another one, and the window does the same thing so I guess it isn't the relay. Obviously there must be some sort of stop sensor that signalls to the relay to stop. This sensor must be broken. Any info. from anyone about this?
Jeff
Jeff
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Dont have a wiring diagram for yours but on a 97 Explorer heres how it works.
The GEM grounds the Y/R wire from the relay. When current flow goes high/window is down this is sensed on the GY wire at the GEM & the GEM removes the ground on Y/R.
My guess would be that there might be a short to ground on Y/R or GY might be open, or the GEM is shot.
The EVTM sez "for diagnostic information refer to service manual."
If i had a 97 Ranger, i would also have this manual & could tell you more.
The GEM grounds the Y/R wire from the relay. When current flow goes high/window is down this is sensed on the GY wire at the GEM & the GEM removes the ground on Y/R.
My guess would be that there might be a short to ground on Y/R or GY might be open, or the GEM is shot.
The EVTM sez "for diagnostic information refer to service manual."
If i had a 97 Ranger, i would also have this manual & could tell you more.
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87xlt is right there is no stop sensor as such. When the current to the motor gets high enough the gem figures it is at the end of travel and turns off power to the motor. Look at all the connections in that door. If it stops going up it probley not the gem because it is sensing motor current well enough to trip the power, also do you have any other problems? The gem controls a lot of things and usely several things go bad at the same time.
Dave
Dave
Last edited by Dave257; May 12, 2005 at 11:06 AM.
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No I'm not having any other problems with the window or other. Other than the Auto Down feature, the rest of the window functions work fine. I can use the Auto Down as long as I hit the "up" side as soon as the window is down all the way. LIke I said, if I don't hit the "up" side of the window switch, you can hear the motor continuing to try and take the window down further.
I guess I will take the down panel apart and check the connections. Is there anything else to check while I have it apart? Where is the GEM located?
I guess I will take the down panel apart and check the connections. Is there anything else to check while I have it apart? Where is the GEM located?
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From: Connecticut
One Touch Down Diagnostics
Originally Posted by 87 XLT
Dont have a wiring diagram for yours but on a 97 Explorer heres how it works.
The GEM grounds the Y/R wire from the relay. When current flow goes high/window is down this is sensed on the GY wire at the GEM & the GEM removes the ground on Y/R.
My guess would be that there might be a short to ground on Y/R or GY might be open, or the GEM is shot.
The EVTM sez "for diagnostic information refer to service manual."
If i had a 97 Ranger, i would also have this manual & could tell you more.
The GEM grounds the Y/R wire from the relay. When current flow goes high/window is down this is sensed on the GY wire at the GEM & the GEM removes the ground on Y/R.
My guess would be that there might be a short to ground on Y/R or GY might be open, or the GEM is shot.
The EVTM sez "for diagnostic information refer to service manual."
If i had a 97 Ranger, i would also have this manual & could tell you more.
According to my Ford Manual, the diagnostics for an OTD concern consists of checking the related wires and connections for a clean tight fit, and then checking the following circuit(s) for opens:
- Circuit 1007 (Y/R) between GEM and one-touch relay.
- Circuit 400 (LB/BK) between one-touch relay and master window regulator control switch.
- Circuit 995 (GY) between GEM and LH front window motor (first disconnect battery ground cable for this one).
If everything checks out OK, then I think you are probably looking at a bad GEM.
FWIW, the GEM and it's connector are located behind the radio, you need to remove the radio and bezel to access it fully.
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Originally Posted by JRRKAR
I have a 97' Ranger. On the drivers side, when I hit the Auto-down window button, the window goes down but does not stop. You can hear a gear or something continuing to try and go down. If I hit the Up side, the window will stop. I'm assuming that a stop-sensor has broken. Anyone have any experience as to how the window motor stops, and/or what needs fixed/replaced?
Jeff
Jeff
I do not have a sensor. The large flat "gear" (aka regulator) has a broken tooth at the end of it. I have to replace the whole gear. Good news is the regulator with a new motor can be bought on EBay for $50+/-.
Might just take a look at yours, might be a broken tooth as well.
Good luck
tom
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Tom, You are correct. There is a broken gear right near the end of the sproket. My question is though....how do you replace the motor?
I did see on ebay, the motor and gear for about $50. Is there a book or something that you used to replace it?
Any advice on removing a window motor for a '97 Ford Ranger would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Jeff
I did see on ebay, the motor and gear for about $50. Is there a book or something that you used to replace it?
Any advice on removing a window motor for a '97 Ford Ranger would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Jeff
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From: Eastern WA
A picture (scant 66Kb in size) says a thousand words. This is a 94; a 97 should be similar/same.
The five bright silver hex head bolts shown in the pic are the fasteners that secure the regulator assembly to the door. Ford used rivets; I replaced with hex bolts. If I were doing it again I'd use rivets; the thing is, you need a puller capable of pulling 1/4" rivets. It's not the common puller you find at tool suppliers and used for rivets up to 3/16", but the larger puller can be rented. The motor is held to the regulator with a couple (three I think) small hex screws. As I recall, it would be much easier to remove the regulator and motor together, then replace the motor. BTW, regulators are not that expensive from the dealer and you don't get the wear that is included with used (up) parts and included at no extra cost
. Also, it doesn't sound like the motor is your problem; it's the regulator.
ON EDIT: About rivet removal. You should be able to drive out the steel center with a hammer and a punch, then use a drill to remove the aluminum remains. If you try to drill out the steel center rather than use a hammer and a punch, life is not so fun. There is no real need for a manual to replace the regulator and/or motor.
The five bright silver hex head bolts shown in the pic are the fasteners that secure the regulator assembly to the door. Ford used rivets; I replaced with hex bolts. If I were doing it again I'd use rivets; the thing is, you need a puller capable of pulling 1/4" rivets. It's not the common puller you find at tool suppliers and used for rivets up to 3/16", but the larger puller can be rented. The motor is held to the regulator with a couple (three I think) small hex screws. As I recall, it would be much easier to remove the regulator and motor together, then replace the motor. BTW, regulators are not that expensive from the dealer and you don't get the wear that is included with used (up) parts and included at no extra cost
. Also, it doesn't sound like the motor is your problem; it's the regulator.ON EDIT: About rivet removal. You should be able to drive out the steel center with a hammer and a punch, then use a drill to remove the aluminum remains. If you try to drill out the steel center rather than use a hammer and a punch, life is not so fun. There is no real need for a manual to replace the regulator and/or motor.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; May 23, 2005 at 01:55 PM.
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Thanks Bill, that is exactly what it looks like. I assumed the five rivets are what held the assembly in place. I wasn't sure how the regulator attached to the window itself.
Do you start with the window down all the way, remove the rivets and electrical connector and then pull the whole unit out through the large hole in the door, just to the left of the motor?
Can you just get a regulator from the dealer? The motor is fine, it is just one of the last teeth in the regulator that is broke. I saw on ebay that you can get a motor and regulator for about $60 including shipping.
Thanks for the help.
Jeff
Do you start with the window down all the way, remove the rivets and electrical connector and then pull the whole unit out through the large hole in the door, just to the left of the motor?
Can you just get a regulator from the dealer? The motor is fine, it is just one of the last teeth in the regulator that is broke. I saw on ebay that you can get a motor and regulator for about $60 including shipping.
Thanks for the help.
Jeff