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Hello Board, just got a hot tip from Maddmax,a tech on another board. He informed me that Ford offers an idle kit to correct idle speed & instability problems. The kit consists of a plate that mounts under the air bypass valve, longer screws, albels & instructions. The plate has 2 adjustment screws that allow you to adjust the amount of extra air that gets bypassed. He claims that after many,many installs, he has yet to have one come back with an idle type problem. He goes on to mention that a decal placed on the harness for the air bypass valve warns future techs they no longer need to clean the throttle body or adjusts base idle speed! He also claims it eliminates having to clean the throttle body following a battery disconnect. Anybody else seen this kit yet ? The Ford # is F2PZ9F939A. Also available aftermarket through TOMCO Fuel Systems as # 8491. I think it's a pretty cool item for you guys. Check it out if you can.
Phillip
Phillip,
I gave Ford Parts a call after I read your post ... It lists for about $16 and wholesales for $12.61 . Not bad if it reduces that thing from sticking . They didnt have any in stock but he ordered me one so we could have a look at it . Thanks Phillip .
Paul
I picked one of these kits up (the Ford one) in an attempt to cure a sticky throttle body. It didn't work for me. It is easy too install and the adjustment instructions are clear. It is for adjusting the amount of air the IAC valve lets by. It could be very helpful for rough idle etc. It did not help or solve my sticky throttle body, I think I need a new one.
The guy that told me about it just said it fits every Ford with an air bypass valve. Apperently, this is a service type item that only mechanics & parts guys that are curious about things that know about it. I guess whenever Paul gets his he'll give us some more info. about the package.
Phillip
Ford called for use of this kit on any FI Ford truck V-8 from 1992 on. I put mine on an 88 302. It all looked the same, but the longer bolts with the kit were a little too long for my application. No problem to work around. The guy in service who I talked to said it will help as the throttle body gets dirty (contributing to rough idle) and may help with sticking throttle. Mine was sticking very badly, and the kit helped a little, but did not totally solve the problem. I read that cleaning the throttle body with other than the Ford cleaners may remove an anti stick coating causing classic sticking. Again, the service manager here confirmed that was true and said they replace a lot of them because they were cleaned with regular throttle body solvent. Who knows, sounds fishy to me but I have heard it several times.
I got it on Tues ...Havent had time to install it . From what I was told ...this thing was designed for throttle bodies that werent supposed to be cleaned . The instructions say to back off the preset idle screw that holds the throttle flaps open . The part is just a plate with 2 gaskets , but it has two adjustment screws ...very simple design . Once this thing is installed , you simply adjust the screws to the proper idle . The only thing I wondered about it was the carbon buildup that will eventually build up inside the Idle air bypass vavle ? Ill install it and see what happens and post back .
Paul
Quick question regarding the throttle body and this air valve thingy.
My 93 F150 I6 has a hesitation problem that only happens as you slightly tap the gas pedal. When you do so the engine drops RPMs for a second and then picks back up. At first I thought it was the Throttle Position Sensor, but the tests don't show a problem with it. Can this air bypass valve or whatever it is called, or a dirty throttle body cause this to happen?
At idle it seems to run ok and when driving, just on take off does this happen.
Yes, your problem could be from a dirty throttle body and air bypass valve. To clean the air bypass valve, remove it from the engine & remove the solenoid. Then you can clean the sludge & carbon from it. I'm pretty sure that you can safely use carb cleaner on this piece,but for the throttle plates & bore, you may want to use WD-40 or the special FORD cleaner to prevent damage to a coating that is supposed to be present in the bore to prevent sticking of the plate to the bore.A toothbrush is helpful to remove the ring of carbon around the plates and bores. Use a rag to wipe up most of the dislodged carbon,that way,you don't have to use so much solvent.
Phillip
About the battery disconnect thing,most vehicles will usually have a problem with the battery, or other component that needs to have the battery disconnected to replace, about every two years or so. After 2 years of driving under good conditions,the computer has learned the proper way to idle the engine without stalling or surging,even if the throttle body gets dirty. When you disconnect the battery, the long term memory is lost,and, the computer has to start all over again learning your particular engine characteristics. When you restart the engine after disconnecting the battery, the computer has a factory set of parimeters to use until it learns more.The factory parimeters don't include a dirty throttle body,it thinks it has a brand new throttle body and a brand new everything else for that matter. Just about all engines will constantly idle bad,surge at idle,or idle high for a long,long time until the computer relearns. Cleaning the throttle body will stop this pesky problem early, so you can give the car back to the customer,or yourself, without complaint. It's a habit for me now to clean the throttle body on every air filter change as well as battery disconnect.
Phillip
>will anyone please tell me what
>part of the
>carburetor is the throttle body.
>Is it on the inside
>of the carburetor or outside?
>Thanks.
Carb equipped Ford trucks do not have throttle bodies, only the EFI ones do. The TB is bolted to the intake manifold. The air intake tubes from the air filter box goes to the TB.
I have a high idle and the following. The idle I can live with. I have recently had an intermittent electrical problem develop in my engine electrics. A 1992 F150 302W EFI. All engine electrics drop out momentarily, if you are stopped at the lights or intersection the engine stops and must be restarted, if you are driving, the engine will fire again after the brief interlude. I have not been able to get the problem resolved and talking to others this is a problem some have encountered without resolve other than to sell there F150. Has anyone else struck this problem and resolved it before I embark on what is bound to be a costly exercise.
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