If you are after mpg more than power, I can save you some time and money. Headers won't help your mileage. My truck is a '90 and the Hedman's fit fine once I got the alternator bracket out of the way. On a 96 you should be in the same boat, except you have all that pesky OBD 2 crap to deal with.

 

I haven't found a set of headers for an inline 6. If I can't find a pair then whatever. Looking 2 fabricate the headpipe once I get my muffler and high flow cat.

 

how can u not find a set? almost every manufactor makes a set...dont believe the listings they use for the years.

 

Give er hell dude, find a set and I"ll be proud of you. '96 f-150, inline 6, fuel injected.

 

As I have said possibly hundreds of times in this forum, I am running Heddman Headers on my truck. They only list them for models up to 1989. Since this is such a chore, click here. You will have to add emmissions fittings to them. They list 5 different part numbers for the 300. Have you actually looked for these?

Edit: The FTE site natzis won't let me link to them. The part number on the Summit site is HED-89300.

 

"The FTE site natzis won't let me link to them" - thats funny as hell! haha

but hey, since the 300 makes such good low end torque because of the small port sizes, otherwise a not so good breathing head, what would sbc valves and a cam do to the low end torque? I'd like to buy the valves, a summit truck cam, and headers, but i dont want to loose low end torque.

 

As an older (not necessarily wiser) guy, I'm constantly amazed at the seemingly rampant lack of basic engine knowledge I read about in some of these posts.

Gas engines 101: The internal combustion engine is, in essence, an air pump. Nothing more, really. If it's only designed internally to impell (suck in) a given amount of air (air and fuel mixture) that's all the air you're going to get into it. Period!

Ever try to make a funnel pass more liquid than the restrictive passage will allow? It can't be done under normal circumstances. Sure, there's supercharging, but even then you're looking at changing a lot of the internal designing to make that method effective.

Just accept the fact that there's nothing on Slick Willie's $3 shelf that is going to make your solid, reliable tractor engine a fire breather.

Do the smart thing. Keep everything clean and operating properly, and perhaps spend your money on the one thing that CAN help. Get a less restrictive exhaust system.

That is the one area of our air pumps that could use some help. If the air (air and fuel mixture) can't get out of the engine (air pump) at a rate at least equal to the rate it can enter... you ain't goin' to get that air in. No way, no how.

Get a better (less restrictive) exhaust system.

After that, look at more effective ways of making sure all of that air and fuel mixture is being burned when and where it's supposed to be. Otherwise your now more effective air pump is going to do just that... pump the unburned (totally wasted $) right out the new exhaust.

End of Basic Lesson #1.

 

ok, before you guys go off and mess something up, from whats been read on this forums, you dont install a cam and valves, if you dont watch it, the valves will make contact with the piston if you do nice ratio vavles with a radical lift cam. You do 1 or the other. If you dont wanna tear the motor down, do the vavles, if your already in the motor do the cam.

Try what I want to do. Take another head if you can find 1 same year and all (not all that sure on the what fits what years whats better stuff), go to a cylinder head shop, say make it extreme. put 500-800$ down, and i bet you can walk away wiht a good 25-40 % power increase all around, and be alot happier with it because every other mod will actually make a difference.