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Found a part that replaces the factory air hose (direclety after the air box) which is a straight tube as opposed to the ribbed version. The site says the ribbed version muffles sound and impedes velocity, I'm looking to build the replacement. Anyone know of a downside to this?
A part I seen advertised is basically a little fan that fits into said tube. The fan is supposed to make the air spin resulting in increased air velocity. I'm looking 2 build this part as well. Any downside or foreseen problem?
lastly
The air intake on my truck has a very small opening near the back of the grill. I'd like to increase the diameter of the intake. I understand more crap will get in but I'll take preventive measures to keep this from happening ie: screen
Any advice?
Each advertised part boasts an increase in horsepower as well as mpg.
That little fan is a way to increase the velocity of money out of your pocket and into theirs. The air still has to go through the throttle body and valves and into the cylinder to meet with the fuel charge. As for the straight piping, might help, I know it will look sweet, that is my next non-vital project.
Don't waste your time and money upstream of the intake ports. Until more air can get past the valves it doesn't matter how much air can flow through the intake tubes.
Don't waste your time and money upstream of the intake ports. Until more air can get past the valves it doesn't matter how much air can flow through the intake tubes.
Thye did a Dyno test before and after installation of the fan and there were signifigant increases in EVERY vehicle they tested. Some had a gain of 14 horsies.
ok first we get it hot and make some dyno pulls,
next we install our [whatever] now that it is cooled
way down we make a dyno pull. WOW! more power
my [whatever] works it made more hp. or maybe
because it was cold, old tuners trick called the money shot
I seriously dought that some fan is going to give you 14 hp. It takes a lot to gain that much. It doesn't matter if you have all this horsepower you still have to get it to the wheels, only whp matters cause thats what your really using. IMO the first things you should do engine performance wise that is is you need to get it breathing in and get the air going out better cause the factory really restricts those two things.
I never said that other things won't give you hp. It's just that if you get them breathing better your setting the stage for more mods later. The engine can only suck in so much air then you have to have a good exhaust to flow it out. Thats just something I always did first then once I got that done I would get inside of the engine and build it up. Whats the point of building an engine for performance if your still going to use the factory air intake and exhaust? And K&n filters don't really add a whole lot of power, I have them on my truck and car and I didn't really notice a difference. I think it's a marketing scam imho.
oh and get the walker 45166 downpipe and you'll be good to go
I can put my truck on the dyno and add 40 hp with a few strokes of the keyboard. 14 hp is nothing to add to a dyno chart. Adding it to real output is another matter entirely.
As far as I know, I am the only one that has done any dyno testing of various parts. The difference between a CLEAN stock filter and an open throttle body is zero. Even a filthy nasty caked in funk stock filter only costs you about 2 hp. Once you've got everything else opened up you can focus on the induction. Even a K&N drop in filter is a poor investment compared to installing a ported head. If you do a search for dyno numbers you should find a few charts and some explanations to go with them about what was tested and how. I make every effort to make my results conistent; parts manufacturers make every effort to make a buck.
As far as building headers goes, that is an exercise in futility. You can get a pair of Hedmans for about $130. Building them yourself will cost you back more than that in materials by the time you get a usable set made.
I haven't found a set yet that'll fit my inline 6.
I'm after mpg more than hp.
I gain a sense of accomplishment from building vs buying.
You've talked me out of a k&n.
K&N's a waste completely. Buy/install some S.B.C. valves instead of this airpipe deal, and a truck cam, and headers or a downpipe if you're looking for some horsies. the small block chevy valves, 1.60 and 1.92(i think its 1.92) and a cam will increase your air flow.
more power means less throttle to move which means more gas in the tank...kinda like steeper gears...I think??? sounds good anyways...
k&ns give no better gas mileage, either do flowmasters. the money to buy K&Ns looks good and flowmastes sound good...on V-8's.