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wheel cylinder replacement

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Old May 10, 2005 | 08:26 PM
  #16  
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teg3
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From: colorado
yes I only replaced the wheel cylinder and adjuster plus spings. it was leaking a little
the pins that go into the cylinder appear straight but after a test seem to angle a bittill I fix it.No I never pulled the e brake from the shoe.Onething to note during testing the
right shoe moves but not the left.When you hold the together they both move equally

thanks again
 
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Old May 10, 2005 | 09:31 PM
  #17  
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pauldee0046
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It is not unusual for one to move before the other because of a difference in spring tension and the attachment of the parking brake lever.

As long as they both move when you apply tension you should be fine.

I just dont understand why the drum will not go back on..
 
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Old May 11, 2005 | 04:56 AM
  #18  
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From: colorado
The only thing I can come up with is.bad drum it is 15 years old..I recheck everything at the parts store.I have all the right stuff.
 
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Old May 11, 2005 | 08:59 AM
  #19  
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pauldee0046
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Drums can only wear a few thousands of an inch and get bigger, never smaller.

I would look carefully at the old wheel cylinder and the new wheel cylinder.

With the shoes in place get an outside measurement on the plungers that go into the wheel cylinder...
Pull the brake shoes (again) ...
Put the plungers into the old wheel cylinder (Making sure you compress the pistons) and measure this one...

They need to be the same...

Just because the cylinders bolted up does not mean they are the same...
 
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Old May 11, 2005 | 10:43 AM
  #20  
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wettone
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make sure the cross bar that links the shoes to the e-brake lever is installed, and seated correctly. Alternately, remove the said piece, and trial fit the drum. If it goes on, then there is a problem with the position of the e-brake lever(ie;cable is stuck or miss-adjusted).
 
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Old May 11, 2005 | 11:18 AM
  #21  
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first, you said you put the larger shoe in the front? it always goes in back, that's the secondary shoe, the one that takes the majority of the e-brake. next, I don't think this is the proper way to adjust the e-brake, but I found i can adjust mine by engaging the lever and slamming the lever all the way down, then it clicks, and it's all adjusted perfect. But in order to do that you'd have to get the drum on....

the pins in the wheel cylinder are properly contacting the shoes? when fully compressed do both shoes touch the top pin where the springs clip to? the drum brake bar is in correctly?

that's all I can think of. The only thing i didn't replace in my drums is the drum brake bar, I replaced the drums, spring kits, self adjuster kits, both wheel cylinders and new brake lines.
 
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Old May 12, 2005 | 08:37 PM
  #22  
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I believe I found the problem.But I need a confirmation.I was told it was a 10 inch diameter.. the adjuster is for a ten inch ..Do adjuster sizes differ that much 10 vs nine .Because I measured the adjuster modified it slightly to smaller size everything works fine..differs as much a one inch.Does this sound reasonable ?
 
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Old May 12, 2005 | 10:34 PM
  #23  
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pauldee0046
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From: San Diego
Never, never, never modify a brake part...
You are putting your life and others at risk... for less than what is costs to go to Jack in the Box...

Clean up the old part, reuse it... Fine...
I have never had to replace one...
Soak it in a penetrating solvent, Work it , grease it and use it...

9" or 10"... The maximum turned size is cast or stamped into the drum...

Got a tape measure... ?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2005 | 06:49 PM
  #24  
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teg3
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From: colorado
By modification I only changed the size..The problem was its placement of the adjuster
it goes in the middle cross wise.My mistake was I had it in the wrong position.Sould have paid better attention to its placement.thanks everyone for advice/imput it helped alot.
 
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