wheel cylinder replacement
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: colorado
wheel cylinder replacement
I have just read the repair manual on replacement of the wheel cylinders
and It looks like you have to remove the entire break assembly just to replace this part is this so ?.The shoes are good just need to replace the cylinders..thanks
and It looks like you have to remove the entire break assembly just to replace this part is this so ?.The shoes are good just need to replace the cylinders..thanks
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Portage la Prairie, Mb.
Did the cylinder seals go, and did the shoes become contaminated with brake fluid?
If so, you should re shoe-the axle as the brakes will probably grab when applied. You "may" be able to use brake cleaner fluid on the friction areas with some success, but the best route is to replace the shoes.
Good luck with that.
If so, you should re shoe-the axle as the brakes will probably grab when applied. You "may" be able to use brake cleaner fluid on the friction areas with some success, but the best route is to replace the shoes.
Good luck with that.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: San Diego
I am confused...
You say they are wearing out... but the shoes are good...
My guess is that the self adjusters are stuck (common problem)
This can cause a wheel to grab instead of brake smoothly
Something to try...
Find a safe place and back up and apply brakes repeatedly stop after stop
(20 or 30 times) This can sometimes break the self adjuster loose and allow the brake to properly adjust.
There is a hole in the backing plate to manually adjust these brakes...
That would be another option. Pushing the adjuster wheel down will tighten the brakes. Pushing up usually requires a screwdriver to gently push the locking arm away and loosens the brakes.
Shoes are cheap...
If you already have the Aero jacked up, wheels off, drums off, shoes off to replace the cylinders... Replace the shoes...
You will have peace of mind that you did a complete job...
Remember a touch of lubriplate on the backing plate where the shoes rub..
You say they are wearing out... but the shoes are good...
My guess is that the self adjusters are stuck (common problem)
This can cause a wheel to grab instead of brake smoothly
Something to try...
Find a safe place and back up and apply brakes repeatedly stop after stop
(20 or 30 times) This can sometimes break the self adjuster loose and allow the brake to properly adjust.
There is a hole in the backing plate to manually adjust these brakes...
That would be another option. Pushing the adjuster wheel down will tighten the brakes. Pushing up usually requires a screwdriver to gently push the locking arm away and loosens the brakes.
Shoes are cheap...
If you already have the Aero jacked up, wheels off, drums off, shoes off to replace the cylinders... Replace the shoes...
You will have peace of mind that you did a complete job...
Remember a touch of lubriplate on the backing plate where the shoes rub..
Last edited by pauldee0046; May 7, 2005 at 09:28 AM.
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Junior User
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From: colorado
Sorry should have been more specific..When they checked the brakes the shoes have plenty of life..Just seems they never replaced the extras..like springs,adjuster ect
seems like I should just replace all of it..Last question since I am doing the back Should I doo the frount also.
seems like I should just replace all of it..Last question since I am doing the back Should I doo the frount also.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: San Diego
The front and rear wear at different rates. I seldom see them both worn out at the same time.
Another note...
Pay attention to the size of the abrasive material on the shoes when you take them off. One is bigger than the other one goes towards the front and the other goes to the rear.
Also DO NOT swap adjuster from one side to the other while cleaning the parts. One is left hand thread and the other is right hand thread.
Mix them up and you have self adjusters that constantly LOOSEN your brakes...
Another note...
Pay attention to the size of the abrasive material on the shoes when you take them off. One is bigger than the other one goes towards the front and the other goes to the rear.
Also DO NOT swap adjuster from one side to the other while cleaning the parts. One is left hand thread and the other is right hand thread.
Mix them up and you have self adjusters that constantly LOOSEN your brakes...
Last edited by pauldee0046; May 7, 2005 at 09:34 AM.
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Junior User
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From: colorado
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Junior User
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From: San Diego
Because of production changes and dealer options I never guess.
Just buy both and return what you dont use... Along with the old cores...
That way you have them both available...
Just buy both and return what you dont use... Along with the old cores...
That way you have them both available...
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: colorado
I just replaced the wheel cylinder I followed the instructions exactly.Problem is the
drum wont go back on as easy as before.I believe the springs are correct.The adjuster is lowest as it will go..But if you remove it you can put the drum back easy.What might I be missing and thank you for the advice.
drum wont go back on as easy as before.I believe the springs are correct.The adjuster is lowest as it will go..But if you remove it you can put the drum back easy.What might I be missing and thank you for the advice.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: San Diego
Parking brake is also my first guess...
How did you bleed the cylinder?
If you can get the drum back on at all put it on and adjust the adjuster up tight, press the brake pedal a few times then back the adjuster off.
It sounds like the pistons in the cylinder are not fully seated.
Are the shoes out past the guides on the backing plate.
They can lock outside and not let the shoes return to full rest position.
Just a thought... Did you check the drum size for future reference... 9" or 10"
How did you bleed the cylinder?
If you can get the drum back on at all put it on and adjust the adjuster up tight, press the brake pedal a few times then back the adjuster off.
It sounds like the pistons in the cylinder are not fully seated.
Are the shoes out past the guides on the backing plate.
They can lock outside and not let the shoes return to full rest position.
Just a thought... Did you check the drum size for future reference... 9" or 10"
Last edited by pauldee0046; May 8, 2005 at 11:11 AM.
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Junior User
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From: colorado
Yes drum is a 10.The shoes ae slightly past the backing plate but not by much.I did need to replace the adjuster and while I was at it replaced the spring assembly.I ahd to weak the adjuster a little to get thedrum back on but I think I may need just to start over.When I have more time..I believe the parking bark is released also.But one thing I did notice is the right shoewould move from the plate andthe left not at all.
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From: San Diego
I have never had to replace an adjuster. The most I have ever had to do is to take one apart, clean and lube it.
You should be able to pop the shoe that is past the baking plate back onto the guide pads.
The shoe with the least resistance will move.
You should be able to pop the shoe that is past the baking plate back onto the guide pads.
The shoe with the least resistance will move.
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Junior User
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From: colorado
I noticed you note about shoe size bigger tward frount.I believe this maybe the case here by rights everything should work right..ill check the shoe size once more to be sure.But I was also thinking it it was wrong all this time it wore the drum and now its the way it should be and the drum wont fit..The onething that anoys me about this hole thing is I go for a brake check they tell me all is fine when its not..These so called pros dont pay attention maybe because they are busy whatever its no excuse for inattention.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 76
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From: San Diego
.I noticed you note about shoe size bigger tward frount.I believe this maybe .the .case here by rights everything should work right..ill check the shoe size .once more to be sure.
You only replaced the wheel cylinder and adjuster.. Correct?
You never pulled the parking brake lever from the rear shoe... Correct?
.But I was also thinking it it was wrong all this time it wore the drum and now .its the way it should be and the drum wont fit..
That would not be possible... Something else is wrong here...
Could the pin that goes into the wheel cylinder be caught up on the side of the plunger and not be centered in the piston.? Do the plungers go straight into the wheel cylinder or is there an angle.
.The one thing that anoys me about this hole thing is I go for a brake check .they tell me all is fine when its not..These so called pros dont pay attention .maybe because they are busy whatever its no excuse for inattention.
What kind of inspection did they do. A drive test, a visual leak test, pop the plug and check remamining brake lining or pull the wheel and drum and do a full visual check.
Was your old cylinder leaking? Did any brake fluid get on the shoes?
You only replaced the wheel cylinder and adjuster.. Correct?
You never pulled the parking brake lever from the rear shoe... Correct?
.But I was also thinking it it was wrong all this time it wore the drum and now .its the way it should be and the drum wont fit..
That would not be possible... Something else is wrong here...
Could the pin that goes into the wheel cylinder be caught up on the side of the plunger and not be centered in the piston.? Do the plungers go straight into the wheel cylinder or is there an angle.
.The one thing that anoys me about this hole thing is I go for a brake check .they tell me all is fine when its not..These so called pros dont pay attention .maybe because they are busy whatever its no excuse for inattention.
What kind of inspection did they do. A drive test, a visual leak test, pop the plug and check remamining brake lining or pull the wheel and drum and do a full visual check.
Was your old cylinder leaking? Did any brake fluid get on the shoes?