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He told me all of this beforehand. And I pretty much got a good deal in any case -- I traded an old crappy buick boat for it. He got put on SR22 and a 4x4 truck put his insurance rates through the roof, so he just needed to get rid of it.
Well I changed the spark plugs. The old ones were pretty crusty. I put in some autolite dual platinums, and it seems to run smoother, but the cracklin' is still there.
Some more details: it doesn't happen much when the engine is cold, and when the engine is nice and warm, it tends to happen easily. It's all about the wheels resisting the engine -- like when I'm accelerating hard, or if I'm going up a hill in too high of a gear (but nothing extreme -- something like 4th at 2500rpm up a moderate hill).
Oh and also, the duct from the grille to the air filter box was disconnected from the box a little, and I re-attached it, but I didn't really notice any big difference from that.
Yeah, thats to check the base timing with a timing light. but you can't run with that connector removed, well you can but the truck will suck up the fuel.
Well, if you check the timing and its witin spec then your timing isn't the problem, I'm not real familiar with the 2.9, but without a distributor you can't adjust the timing. Now if its out of spec, then you'll have to check your timing belt or chain and make sure all the marks on the timing gears are at the right postion with #1 cylinder @ TDC (top dead center)
The 2.9 has a distributor, and it's not overhead cam. It uses a conventional timing chain inside the front cover, so that's not likely to have jumped time. Basically, you hook up a timing light, start it up and remove the SPOUT connector and look at the timing marks like any other engine. Yes, the 2.9 should be at 10 degrees with the SPOUT connector unplugged. The dist clamp bolt is a pain to get to if you have to adjust it, you'll have to find it more by feel than visually, although a small mirror might come in handy here. -TD
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