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I'm interested in the D2TEAA head information also. During my build I discovered the heads didn't match. My engine had 1 D2TEAA and 1 I believe is a C8AE. I went to the Pate swap meet this past weekend at the Texas Motor Speedway in Fort Worth, TX and I ended up finding a pair of D2TEAA heads that I purchased. They look to be in very good condition. I think the D2TEAA may have been the original head on my 73 Ford F100. Any knowledge about these would be helpful. Thanks!
The D2TE-AA is a VERY common head. I have two sets here, one cleaned up and one not. They respond extremely well to porting, as shown by the flow numbers I have seen. They have induction hardened exhaust valve seats, so be careful grinding valve seats.
Where would be a good place to send these to get a valve job and possibly porting? How much does it cost to get the porting done? Sorry for all the questions....I used to think I knew something about rebuilding engines until I got into this 390 and started frequenting this forum...LOL. I finally got Steve Christ's book ordered so hopefully I'll have fewer questions!
Well, I ported my 390 heads myself. You can save a lot of money that way. If you have someone do it, expect between $300 - $500. Personally, I'd charge $500 for porting, as it is very time consuming, unless your name is Keith Craft and you have a CNC machine do it for you. Then you'd have to go to a machine shop and have the guides checked / replaced, and valve seats ground. Expect about $100 to $150 for that.
I'd check with Keith Craft Racing about the porting and machine work. I dont know if he'd mess with stock heads or not, he may just try and sell you his ported aftermarket heads. But it's worth a try, and it doesn't cost anything to call.
I'd like to know if I should take the heads C1AE and have em rebuilt or if I would be better off to Pull the D2TEAA heads off and put em on the motor I'm rebuilding. I'm looking for 9.5 or 10 to 1 compression.
I'd use the C1AE's. I think they have larger ports than the D2TE-AA's, and should flow better. You will have to get hardened exhaust seats put in 'em though, so you can burn unleaded gas.
The #1 thing to do with any head when it comes to porting...the most bang for the buck is the Bowl blending work.....which sits under the valve's (the Pocket just below)
And take and blend any casting lines out any cast flash..and that is fairly easy to do even for the first time porter!! ( I am far from being good) But I have done that much before and the gasket match is next!!
Those 3 things will get you close to a Good shop street/strip port as most can do at home.. Unless your a pro !! I have alot to learn ..and Always remember that Big flow #s dont always mean More HP..
That all depends on the combination of Intake,Carb, Cam, Compression, Tranny,rearend Gears,and tire Diameter....
Just My Honest Opinion..Take it for what its worth...000002 cents!! LOL
I just stumbled on this thread and I have some info that may be important for anyone with this engine to know. First off this combo in the 63 Monterey listed 330 hp and 427 pounds of torque and that is said to be grossly underrated, so this combo should already meet the goals of the person who started this thread. The compression is probably 10.1:1. As for the pistons they are definitely stock, with a dish and no valve reliefs. Big warning, do not put a higher lift cam in this engine without putting in pistons with valve reliefs. It will hit and you will have a damaged engine. I found this out the hard way when I put a moderate 270H cam in mine. As long as you heed that warning you will have a sick engine. With a good cam, intake and headers this engine should sneeze at the 400 hp mark and with good port work or a swap to cj heads I would expect 450-500 would not be impossible.