Guys, in 1998 I had a problem start, where my ac would hiss more loudly(equalization) than normal. But the ac was very cold. I asked, but everyone I talked to told me to leave it be, until it quits, so then about the middle of August, the compressor stopped. I took it in to have the ac inspected to find that the ac compressor cycle switch quit. I was sorta happy, $45 later, it was working great, then about a month later the switch quit again, I took it back, and they found the switch was faulty, $0 and a replacement, and I was back on the road. Last week or about 19 months later, It started acting up again. I went to Autozone, and got a replacement for $12.99 and am going to have the fourth switch installed this coming week. Any opinions? The first 2 replacement switches were CarQuest's, and I think they may just be cheap junk. So I hope to have better luck with this autozone version. Or is it something else? I haven't ever had to have freon added.


Pastmaster's 1993 XLT 5.0 E40d 3.55LS Normal Cab/Long bed Loaded from the factory with aid of...MSd 6a ign/s.p. wires, blaster coil, Hypertech Chip, K&N filtercharger, Cat-back dual exhuast w/o mufflers, 3.5", echo tips, Accel distributor cap, Dark Mocha over light mocha. 5% Dark tint, Alpine Cd player/remote, Pioneer speakers.

 

Evan ,
I dont know how good the quality of the aftermarket A/C clutch cycling switches are ? Id suggest you have an A/c shop check that the system has the proper charge , The orifice tube may need replacing also ? The Ford clutch cycling switches are adjustable but are usually preset correctly , I dont know if the aftermarket ones are adjustable or not ? Id stick with the Ford one . They are very simple to remove and install , if you havent done it before , Simply remove its electrical connection and unscrew it then screw the new one on and reconnect the wires , your done .
Paul

 

Pastmaster- My luck with any electrical items from Autozone, Advanced, Carquest, Parts America, etc has been very poor. Have had much better luck with NAPA and those from the small independent parts suppliers. May just be my luck, but I would try another source or an OEM Ford part just for comparison. If it is any comfort, the same switch on my 2000 Taurus with 22,000 miles just quit. It's a warranty item for now, but rather annoying on such a new vehicle.

 

I agree that the chain stores electricle parts have a lower quality than that of Napa. Another brand to look for that is very good is Standard Ignition, or Four Seasons. They are parts sold by many auto parts and are owned by Allied Signal. A division of Fram.

Dave

http://a2ztowing.homestead.com/a2ztowing.html

 

Paul, when I was having problems with the first switch, I turned it a bit and some air came out. Does it leak freon when you take the switch off? I already bought a autozone switch, but I can take it back and order a ford. Had about 60k with the original and no problem. This oriface, is it a serious project, or can I do it myself? I had the ac temp checked last year, and it was about 40 some degrees. I am very happy with that.

I agree with you guys, you pay cheap you get cheap. We had some wiper motors and some other switchs for different vehicles go out and we constantly are replacing them.

Thanks for the replys.
Pastmaster's 1993 XLT 5.0 E40d 3.55LS Normal Cab/Long bed Loaded from the factory with aid of...MSd 6a ign/s.p. wires, blaster coil, Hypertech Chip, K&N filtercharger, Cat-back dual exhuast w/o mufflers, 3.5", echo tips, Accel distributor cap, Dark Mocha over light mocha. 5% Dark tint, Alpine Cd player/remote, Pioneer speakers.

 

>I agree that the chain stores
>electricle parts have a lower
>quality than that of Napa.
> Another brand to look
>for that is very good
>is Standard Ignition, or Four
>Seasons. They are parts
>sold by many auto parts
>and are owned by Allied
>Signal. A division of
>Fram.
>
>Dave

Dave, I guess I'm in luck this time around. I asked the Autozone guy who made this one, he said four seasons.
>
>http://a2ztowing.homestead.com/a2ztowing.html






Pastmaster's 1993 XLT 5.0 E40d 3.55LS Normal Cab/Long bed Loaded from the factory with aid of...MSd 6a ign/s.p. wires, blaster coil, Hypertech Chip, K&N filtercharger, Cat-back dual exhuast w/o mufflers, 3.5", echo tips, Accel distributor cap, Dark Mocha over light mocha. 5% Dark tint, Alpine Cd player/remote, Pioneer speakers.

 

Evan ,
If youre getting 40 deg at the vents by all means leave it be except for changing the cycling switch . You will loose a very little refrigerant ...the switch screws on a shrader type valve . What I have always done is loosen the switch with a wrench and then unscrew it by hand once its loose . The shrader valve will seal off and you should only loose a little .
Paul

 

When I had my last can (R-12) added a few months ago, (I have to add 1 can a year) the comp was cycling more than usual and the tech adjusted the switch and said my orifice tube filter is gettin clogged, so next year we'll convert to R-134A because you'll have to evacuate the system to replace the filter. It's in the tube on the passenger side hose comming from the evaporator.
Not a DIY job.

Moe

 

Thanks guys for the future reference.

Pastmaster's 1993 XLT 5.0 E40d 3.55LS Normal Cab/Long bed Loaded from the factory with aid of...MSd 6a ign/s.p. wires, blaster coil, Hypertech Chip, K&N filtercharger, Cat-back dual exhuast w/o mufflers, 3.5", echo tips, Accel distributor cap, Dark Mocha over light mocha. 5% Dark tint, Alpine Cd player/remote, Pioneer speakers.