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Three problems...Drive line

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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 08:48 PM
  #16  
99f350sd's Avatar
99f350sd
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
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Anything over 40 psi with stock size tires should give you about the same mileage.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 09:54 PM
  #17  
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snootworks
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From: Victoria, BC
Originally Posted by 02superstroker
How is swapping them any different then the new patterns experienced when replacing brake pads with new ones?
As snoracerx mentioned, good practice when replacing brake pads would be to resurface the rotors, or at the very least deglaze them (assuming they're in very good condition, with little wear.)

The pads will have a difficult time bedding in with old, glazed rotors. Given a few hard brake applications they might get better, but a fresh rotor surface is preferred.

I'm not trying to "preach" or anything; brakes are just something I've always regarded as subject best not to mess with.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 10:34 PM
  #18  
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02superstroker
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From: Dallas
I gotchya, however switching them, even if just for a test run, could help to find a problem.

I don't mean to sound like i'm arguing or anything, I agree with you that brakes arn't something to cheap out on.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 10:43 PM
  #19  
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It would be an easy, inexpensive way to ascertain if it is a pad problem or something else. We're talkin bout a short run round the block.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 12:58 AM
  #20  
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hc130flyboy
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From: Tucson
#1 You should service your brakes with NEW Brake Pads and clean up the calipers. If the rubber around the caliper pistons are shot and the pistons sticky try cleaning but you can get loaded calipers pretty resonable now a days.
#2 Like others say you can try a steering stabilizer. Fabtech makes a few kits that are virtually bolt on. I have the Fabtech Dual kit and it was a true bolt on minus drilling one hole for a retainer bolt.
#3 Sounds like U Joints and or Carrier Bearing/shiming. Try spraying alot of penetrating oil on the U Joints and Carrier Bearing. If it goes away you could use a new set of U Joints. while your at it lube the slip yoke and throw in a carrier bearing.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 06:26 PM
  #21  
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SoCalSuperDuty03
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From: SoCali!!
Steve,
On the stabilizer deal, all the SD's (even the ones NOT equipped with a factory stabilizer) the bracket comes on the right side of the front axle. You can go to the dealer (stealer?) and get the small center bracket and u-bolts. Then you can either use a fctory, or aftermarket stabilzer. The tie rod comes with grooves in it for the u-bolts with a factory-length stabilizer. If you use an aftermaket stabilizer, you will either need to file some grooves farther to the right (depending on length of stab.) or drill the holes bigger in the bracket so the u-bolt can spread when you put it on the tie-rod. Either way, pretty simple, and inexpensive.

Tim
 
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 07:13 PM
  #22  
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lmooreF250
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But the Stealers steering stab is sooo small. When mine goes I will replace with aftermarket. But I do have a question for all the seasoned SD owners that work on their truck Are the SDuties brakes that touchy?? From what I am reading they seem to be like a cars brakes. I have 2 F150's and on one (not proud to say it) but the pad wore off and ran the metal into the calipers. Was on the wifes F150 and went to her work and changed the pads in the parking lot to get it home and then drove it home and it stopped great and smooth. I figured it would atleast pulse but no it was fine. Sounds like I would not get away with that on the SD's brakes. Or am I just hearing the bad things. In no way am I telling someone to just throw pads on a bad rotor or is it a safe practice I am just aksing if the SD is that picky. I never turn the rotors if there is no pulse in the pedal or pulling or jerking on a car or so far F150's. Just curious since I will have this one for the next 10-15 yrs Thanks for all the positive responses in advance
 
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