Three problems...Drive line
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From: Near DC
Three problems...Drive line
First:
Truck veers left when braking, hard or medium application of brakes. Lots of good meat left on pads, 38k miles. Rotate pads?
Second:
Sixty lbs in the tires (I want 80 for fuel economy), highway speeds 50+, making a curve on the Interstate, hit bumps. The front end will scamper to the outside of the curve. I know this and am always ready for it, never enough to leave the lane I'm in. Do I need an off-road stab bar?
Third:
Normal acceleration from a stop, less than a half tank of fuel. It feels like the rear wheels are jumping up and down or shuddering, kind'a like a washboard effect but VERY VERY slight. I'm baffled on this one.
Truck veers left when braking, hard or medium application of brakes. Lots of good meat left on pads, 38k miles. Rotate pads?
Second:
Sixty lbs in the tires (I want 80 for fuel economy), highway speeds 50+, making a curve on the Interstate, hit bumps. The front end will scamper to the outside of the curve. I know this and am always ready for it, never enough to leave the lane I'm in. Do I need an off-road stab bar?
Third:
Normal acceleration from a stop, less than a half tank of fuel. It feels like the rear wheels are jumping up and down or shuddering, kind'a like a washboard effect but VERY VERY slight. I'm baffled on this one.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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Id check for a frozen caliper on the right side brakes, front and rear to solve the first problem. As for the second, I dont really understand what you are asking, is the front hopping to the outside of the curve? If so, maybe new shocks are in order. The third problem, shuddering under acceleration, sounds like a bad U-joint, or one that is on its way to being bad. Hope some of this helps.
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From: Dallas
Originally Posted by Steve_250
First:
Truck veers left when braking, hard or medium application of brakes. Lots of good meat left on pads, 38k miles. Rotate pads?
Truck veers left when braking, hard or medium application of brakes. Lots of good meat left on pads, 38k miles. Rotate pads?
It could be bad brake pads, switch the front left side to the right side and the right to left to see if it pulls the other way. This would indicate if it is the pads.
Good luck.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
The second sounds like "bump steer". Could be worn linkage or the bearings are going south, Steve. The steering stabilizer is always a good idea.
The third sounds like normal axle wrap, although there have been members here that have found that the driveshaft was out of balance - and some have found their carrier bearing to be worn. Have you checked the ubolts the hold the diff in place? They could be loose. I would check all those, inspect the carrier bearing and, if it gets worse, check into getting the driveshaft balanced.
But, if it is subtle, then it could be just plain axle wrap.
The third sounds like normal axle wrap, although there have been members here that have found that the driveshaft was out of balance - and some have found their carrier bearing to be worn. Have you checked the ubolts the hold the diff in place? They could be loose. I would check all those, inspect the carrier bearing and, if it gets worse, check into getting the driveshaft balanced.
But, if it is subtle, then it could be just plain axle wrap.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: SoCali!!
Steve,
2wd or 4wd? As for the shudder, check the carrier bearing, the rubber around some of them goes away pretty fast. The 6.0 liter trucks are notorious for this problem, but the 7.3's and even the gas trucks do it to a certain extent. If it is a 2wd,
they need all the shock they can get, as Cadillac suggested. Buy some Bilstien 5100's,
best shock on the market for factory height superduty's.
Tim
2wd or 4wd? As for the shudder, check the carrier bearing, the rubber around some of them goes away pretty fast. The 6.0 liter trucks are notorious for this problem, but the 7.3's and even the gas trucks do it to a certain extent. If it is a 2wd,
they need all the shock they can get, as Cadillac suggested. Buy some Bilstien 5100's,
best shock on the market for factory height superduty's.
Tim
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From: SoCali!!
p.s. A bunch of trucks (especially 6.0's) were going back to the dealer for the 'shudder', if the rubber looks good around the carrier, you may end up shimming the carrier between 1/8 and 3/8 of an inch. Every truck is different. The longbeds generally take less shim than shortbeds.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2000
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Mines a 6.0 CC and they had to shim the carrier bearing nearly 3/4 inch to stop the shudder.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Gilbert
My truck has been hopelessly hopping down the roads for about 2 years and I've finally had it. It's going to the driveline shop next week for new u-joints, driveshaft rebalance, and shims in the carrier bearing, and possibly a new carrier bearing as well (if needed). I need to eliminate all the possibilities of just blaming my crappy ride on my wonderfully designed pro comp lift. Note sarcasm!!!
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From: Near DC
Failed to mention: 38k miles, all regular maint performed by stealer before 30k, no rough off-road driving.
Ok, for the braking problem, I'll swap out the front left to right and service the calipers.
The front end skipping to the outside of the turn I'll put in a steering damper. Any brand suggestions?
The rear shuddering, I'll check the carrier and all associated drive line connections.
Ok, for the braking problem, I'll swap out the front left to right and service the calipers.
The front end skipping to the outside of the turn I'll put in a steering damper. Any brand suggestions?
The rear shuddering, I'll check the carrier and all associated drive line connections.
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From: Near DC
Tires are good, this was all happening before they were rotated last week.
Got the truck from the dealer with 85 lbs in all tires. I dropped it to 60 for a better ride but now considering bringing it up to 80 for fuel economy.
I'll run a tank through and see if it helps, if not, I'll bring 'em back down.
Got the truck from the dealer with 85 lbs in all tires. I dropped it to 60 for a better ride but now considering bringing it up to 80 for fuel economy.
I'll run a tank through and see if it helps, if not, I'll bring 'em back down.
New User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Victoria, BC
I have to recommend NOT swapping brake pads from one side to the other, as the pads and rotor become a matched set of friction surfaces after bedding in and develop distinctive wear patterns.
At the least, the unmatched pad/rotor combination would result in an unsuitable result to judge by, as braking characteristics will be skewed. In the worst case, braking abilty would be significantly compromised.
At the least, the unmatched pad/rotor combination would result in an unsuitable result to judge by, as braking characteristics will be skewed. In the worst case, braking abilty would be significantly compromised.
