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Okay, I took my top off tonight and was on my way down to the strip with some friends. I hit the brakes and the next thing I know my Rear-Anti lock dummy light and my e-brake light turns on. Then I started to notice that my brakes were catching in the back and they started to smell. So I turned around and went home. It looked to me like it was the e-brake so I un-did it under the truck and released the tension, after that everything seemed to be fine. I get clear down to the strip and it starts again. All of the lights turn on and it starts hooking up again. What could cause this to happen?
Sounds like it is the ABS valve. located on the driver's side front frame rail. Mine went bad and was causing the front pads to drag and tearing up pads and rotors, in addition to the lights being on. It's not a cheap part but it's been over two years now since it was replaced and I have not had any problems since, and my ABS even works properly.
No, there are not any leaks. Jbronco, does the abs valve affect the fronts too? I thought it was for the rear only? I did not know that. I have never traced the lines though. I replaced my master cylinder today. It was under a lifetime warranty from the zone so I just replaced it anyways. So far so good, but it usually takes about 1/2 hour of driving until it starts again. I was told that the ABS valve very rarley goes out and it is about $90 or so and special order only. But I still think you are right Jbronco, I have a gut feeling that it is the ABS valve. I will find out soon enough and let you know. Thanks for the help so far!
Depends on the year of your Bronco. My '92 only has ABS on the rear so I'd imagine that a bad ABS valve would only affect the rear brakes. I could be wrong though. have been before. Just ask my wife.
also take a look at your rear brake hose. sometimes you get rust around the fittings causing the host to collapse, which could keep pressure to your master cylinder keeping the brakes applied.
just a thought.
Thanks, I bleed the brakes and they flowed free so I don't think that is the problem. Also, there is next to no rust out here. I am just waiting for the new ABS valve to get here.
Are you using Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid in your system? Sounds crazy, but I had a couple of gallons of old brake fluid on my utility room shelf. I purchased it cheap, many years ago, when a department store went out of business. Everytime the brakes got hot [and they do in here in Florida], it felt like I was driving with one foot on the brake pedal. It was not quite as bad in my big Bronco, but the Cherokee engine would actually overheat from the brakes ceasing up at times. This happened about 7 years ago ... and no one I mentioned it too, could figure it out. Finally, my brother asked if I tried Dot 4 brake fluid ... [a light went on] I said the brake fluid I'm using in the vehicles wasn't even rated on the can! This most likely is not your problem, but weird things do occur at times.
Does your truck have a VSS in the rear diff housing? It is the sensor the ABS computer uses to monitor wheel slip in the rear on most later trucks. However since in 88 there was no PSOM and the E4OD was still optional, I am wondering if there was a different sensor or sensors that sent info to the ABS computer. Either way, you might look into this as being a possible source of the problem. Dirty sensors or trigger rings in the ABS system can cause the kind of symptoms you describe. Basically a dirty sensor or ring leaves the computer "blind" to wheel speed and so the computer "assumes" the worst and slams full pressure to the brake(s) in question.
I don't think that my truck has one. I know that there are no plugs going into my rear-end. I am not sure if I have a sensor for the ABS? Do you think that it could be that the ABS valve is going? That is the last I could think of so I ordered it and am waiting for it.
Hey Kam.
Pull the drums and check the part that turns the adjuster.It can wear thin and cause the same type of trouble. It will actually bend if too thin.
I also have seen the small cable that moves that part come out of the guide.
You end up with intermitent brake drag. Backing up seems to make it stop til it binds up again.
Check it out it's a cheap fix.
I've seen and repaired this problem a few times.
Last edited by 93BigBlackBronco; Apr 29, 2005 at 01:37 AM.
Well, I was wrong. I do have a speed sensor on top of my rear diff. housing. I replaced it yesterday and still no luck, all of the brake dummy lights came on again. I have already pulled both drums and inspected them, they seem to be fine. I am hoping that this valve takes care of it.